You might try the “write motor configuration” button instead of the “write app configuration” button, since this is under the “motor settings” tab, not the “app settings” tab.
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I always hit both motor and app write because i feel Vedder made it Not for us mere mortals.
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Alright, so I’m scared shitless of my board right now.
I’m running flipsky 63100’s on HFI , two turnigy 12ah 6s lipos in series, and a vanpro mini remote.
My motors kept randomly cutting out while I was riding. At one point, it started accelerating with no input to do so, and the board threw me. Phase wires are all connected well.
I’m going to try a new remote first. Any suggestions on a trigger remote that won’t drop signal? The receiver is in a 3d printed enclosure, so I doubt that the signal is being blocked.
If that doesn’t work, then I am going to resolder my phase wire connections.
Then HFI settings.
I’m kind of baffled right now.
If its not that, I’m going to resol
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I got a VX2 that was cutting out several times an hour and also doing the uncommanded acceleration thing.
PropulsionBoards sent me a replacement and those two problems went away.
I’m in line for a freesk8 remote which should be coming out soon - way way more expensive but I’m holding out hope that it will solve my remote problems forever.
Yeah I really hate the cutouts. Freesk8 remote? Link me up
This isn’t even released yet, why suggest it lol
Also the pricing is probably at least 10x what the alternatives are
For example, the gt2b mod remotes are excellent. @ethana4
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I didn’t really suggest it I suggested he check if his VX2 (if he has one) was busted (as mine was) and replace it (as I did) I then I said (as an interesting side point) “I’m in line for a freesk8 remote which should be coming out soon - way way more expensive but I’m holding out hope that it will solve my remote problems forever.” which is exactly what you are saying here.
I had this EXACT same problem. The white (signal) wire ended up being cut, between the receiver and the ESC. Check that specific wire for loose connections. The stray capacitance there still allowed it to work somewhat, but with these exact weirdisms you’ve described.
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The VX2 on my Flux went out for a moment today with the characteristic double vibration warning. Lost brakes and almost rolled into a busy street. Veered to the side to do a turn and grabbed a traffic light to stop. It’s not the most reliable as remotes go, my other Hobbywing China-motes have held up flawlessly so far.
Okay fair I read it slightly wrong
Not exactly what I said, as I suggested a gt2b but it is what it is
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Is fine frit supposed to have a powder like consistency? It doesnt seem like what I got will grip anything lol
Does anyone have a recommendation for a 90V to 12V DC-DC buck converter? Looking for something that can do at least 10A. Ive been looking at options on Amazon, but if anyone has something they have tried and would recommend, I’m all ears 
2 things. My stormcore powerbutton is on green all the time, even when empty battery. What can i do with this?
Also, what should the voltage be on a 10S4P 40T3? I thought it was 36v, and got scared when i charged it to 41.7V i think it was.
Do the math…
10S x 4.2V/cell = 42V (fully charged)
10S x 3.6V (or 3.7V) = 36V (37V) “nominal” voltage that merely identifies what battery chemistry is being used. Ignore this voltage.
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send an email to lacroix, see if they will send u a replacement, or u can choose to ignore it, i don’t think it will cause any issue
all liion / lipo fully charged is at 4.2V per single cell, if u have 10s, that’s 10 x 4.2 = 42V. p-groups doesn’t change this, only series count does
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Did you set your series and chemistry options in the VESC Tool? This is likely the cause
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Yes i did. 
So, 40t3 is 4.2 fully charged? And this is ok? 
