The sensors aren’t going to work after you’re done, but you don’t need those either as long as you can kick-push or hip-flick.
Water doesn’t seem to hurt the rest of the motor, although it accelerates bearing aging.
Take a look at this video, the motor is underwater so it doesn’t get too hot.
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Hello! I’ve created a diagram detailing how to wire my components. Can someone confirm that i won’t blow myself up? And what would you do differently?
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B0 goes to B-
B1 is 4.2V higher than that
B2 is 8.4V higher than that
…
B12 is 50.4V higher than that
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The fuse needs to be on the charge port, not separated by a connector.
Nevermind, that “18AWG” is a label, not a connector
As designed, it looks like it would function, but I would add a loopkey to the circuit as per here
You don’t have to pull the loopkey if you’re using the Unity switch. It’s still good to have, and if the switch ever died, your skate would still work fine without repairs.
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Is my labeling wrong? I meant B1- as in the negative terminal of p-group one.
Its not wrong. It’s just B- goes with B -1 on the same negative terminal. It looks fine. But a second advice is good.
It’s not “wrong” but most BMS I have seen use this
And so that would be called B0 or B-, and definitely not B1 or B1-.
So yeah, kinda. But there is no “wrong” here. Some things will work and some won’t, but I don’t think there is a rigid standard of labeling here.
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Anyone have any idea what the speed / power graphs look like for the motors we generally use? (~6374 size) If anyone actually has a graph, I’d be interested in one for a ~190kv motor.
They generally look like this when paired with a controller like a vesc.
The “knee” point on the torque curve is where the motor current stops being the limiting factor, and the battery current takes over.
The raw motor dyno graphs look more like this: (this is a 6374 192kv. The “5045” is the dimensions of the stator itself, rather than the can.
but it’s less useful for actual ridability. That’s more what you’d expect for a more constant load like an airplane propeller, rather than a ground vehicle.
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Anyone has any idea what could have happened in the bit of the log around 20:15:50 and 20:16:10.
For a little context, I was riding when suddendly felt loss of power and due to that it wobbled quite a bit but I managed to stay on the board. Notice that current and motor current go to 0 even with PPM at 1.00ms.
It happened 3 times before around that battery level but at much slower speed so I didn’t care. I have a BKB Xenith V2 running FW5.2 with 12S9P Samsung 50G and Flipsky 6384 190kv.
What remote is it? My first instinct is a radio receiver problem.
Hoyt Puck. In case of radio receiver issue, PPM shouldn’t show 0 as well? What was weird to me is that PPM is at 1 but current and motor current is 0.
I don’t see that, when the motor current is 0, the “PPM” is 0.00ms
Unless I’m missing something
I heard that it can be bad to have removed a couple of strands of wire when stripping it. Even after using the bigger gauge hole this still happens sometimes and can leave a ring around where the silicone was cut. Should I cut off the wire when this happens or is it fine to leave
It depends on which wire it is, how much extra length there is, what guage the wire is, how many strands you broke, how confident you are you will make it better on the second try, how much quality/safety is important to you, and what your level of OCD is.
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