Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

[frame]

i feel like those are TB motors and the mr60 probably is a xenith

[EVEE]

I should have better said nothing

[shaman]

Can you take a closer and higher definition photo of the particular connectors in question? Can you also take this to the CFOC2 thread like you have for other issues?

[RedEyedJedi]

Thanks. You guys are dope. It is a Torqueboard motor and the ESC is Focbox Unity

[RedEyedJedi]

I’m just gonna try my hand at soldering.

[b264]

Do your research.

[Serious] How To Solder-The Complete Tutorial From A>Z

Here is a tutorial on how to solder. We will discuss everything from how-tos, what tools and tips & tricks. - Here is a list of what you need. Tools | What you actually need"] First off, a soldering iron, not a pistol. Basically a long stick with a metal rod. Solder. It needs to be 60/40 that has a rosin core. People use 63/37, it is personal. Flux Helping Hand/soldering Jig Brass coil/or just use a damp cloth that you don’t need. Desoldering Braid - Sooooo many soldering irons! Which one? …

[Balta_6]

Back here, because I’ve never really thought about this :
What’s the difference between a vesc 4 and vesc 6 ? and why the architecture of the vesc 6 is superior ?
And why is the Focbox so strong even at 12s with FOC if it’s a vesc 4 architecture ?

[rusins]

I don’t know how many people even have this old version, so I thought it wouldn’t be as helpful for others…

But sure, will do after dinner. Just thought you’d know off the top of your head, it’s your photo after all

[shaman]

@rusins

Just thought you’d know off the top of your head

Nope! This was many versions of several different designs ago. I have project files saved for a reason. I can look after work, but a high res close up would let me see faster

[sleepless]

Has no one written an unofficial VESC tool motor setup guide?

With community recommended adjustments and safe ranges, i.e.:

• duty cycle current limit start (infamous)
• FOC detection normal value ranges: motor current, resistance, inductance, flux
• max brake amps
• battery current max regen
• what to do if the wizard assigns different values to your two/four motors? match highest, lowest?
• Advanced Settings adjustments

There’s a lot of BOLD, RED, UNDERLINED WARNINGS in the official guide (https://www.vesc-project.com/node/938) coupled with vague usually and most times statements.

Would love people’s recommendations based on experience in our niche.

[rusins]

No good guides like that as far as I’m aware. I’ve thought about making one, but the Dunning Kruger effect holds me back. So do occasional vesc bugs – maybe when FW 5.3 comes out it’ll be stable enough for me to make a video where I don’t have to explain workarounds that’ll become irrelevant next release

VariESC tool by Brian has a lot of good default values for things though, so I’d recommend that for new people.

[YeetMeat]

Does the flipsky vx1 use a hall sensor (and not a potentiometer) for the throttle?

[frame]

no, vx1 is potentiometer remote

[Flasher]

Can someone physically confirm whether or not five-star rims can fit 10 inch tires?

[mr.shiteside]

@Linny

Because it was a unity I thought it would follow the similar sentiment in the Focbox UI tool. Like for example the battery max discharge is 80A, the Focbox UI would take it as 80A total.

So when I set it up in VESC tool I set the master side to 80A.

Follow up noob Q: does FW 5.x count single MCU ESCs like unity as two and double the battery current or what? I made this mistake as well but thankfully I had a pretty conservative motor setting and a good BMS so I don’t think I’ve hurt the battery

[Linny]

Guess not, you need to split your battery max for each side. So if your battery does 80A, do 40A each side, using the canbus to switch to the other side and change your settings.

[Linny]

@Linny

Alright I have a noob question because I might have fucked something

So I have a 10s4p 30Q pack I built last year. I used it on a board that was running 5.1 firmware on a unity. Because it was a unity I thought it would follow the similar sentiment in the Focbox UI tool. Like for example the battery max discharge is 80A, the Focbox UI would take it as 80A total.

So when I set it up in VESC tool I set the master side to 80A. I recently used the pack again and realised it only charges to 90%, or 40v. Did my battery max settings deplete my battery’s lifespan? Even if I never ridden hard enough to discharge the battery’s ‘supposed’ max rating

Update, i’ve opened the enclosure and measured the voltages of each group via the JST connector on the BMS.

In order, group 1 to 10

4.2
4.2
4.1
3.8
4.2
4.1
4.1
4.2
4.2
3.7
This is the battery pack in question, and was built by me.

Now my question is, how should i go about rebalancing the groups back? And what causes this to happen? I’d say i was pretty careful and meticulous with the building process.

[itsrow]

Easiest and least destructive way of doing it would be to find another female 13pin JST connector so you have all of the connections at hand. Then very carefully after checking 3 or 4 times, connect the first cell negative to the first cell positive / second cell negative and charge up the P-groups individually using a balance charger (imax b6 or adjustable DC power supply) at low current, I want to say 0.25A is safe but my daly wiring harness is in the garage and its cold in there.

For the prevention aspect, I dont think there is anything you can do, cells have a little natural variation off of the assembly line and our usage of the cells in combination with calendar years just accentuates difference between good and okay cells. Although it’s strange your Daly couldn’t balance this out, its not absurdly unbalanced.

[Battery_Mooch]

@itsrow

Although it’s strange your Daly couldn’t balance this out, its not absurdly unbalanced.

Actually, a 0.5V imbalance is huge, absolutely huge, and indicative of a non-functioning balancer or some other big issue. There could easily be a 40% difference in capacity between some of those p-groups.

@Linny, you can also “go direct”. Slit the Kapton tape at each balancing lead solder point and, using alligator clips, connect a 4.20V charger (any type) or CC/CV power supply and charge each p-group directly. No need to deal with the harness. Then just put a piece of tape over each slit when done to seal the pack back up.

But sort out why the pack become so badly unbalanced before using it again.

[Linny]

@Battery_Mooch

connect a 4.20V charger (any type) or CC/CV power supply

Will do! I do not have any of these however, anyone able to point me to the direction where i can get one?