Phatladdz or superstars imo, or rockstar ii as gill bordon mentioned @BillGordon, if you want no frills and cheap, rockstars are the way.
I like the phatladz for the extra width they offer!
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Can I ask why? Ive got no knowledge of emtb stuff and all these hubs still look more or less identical
Stretched tyre allows bigger contact patch and looks cool…most importantly
Other than that, I couldn’t tell you if there are any real benefits tbh
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Ok…so I guess phat lads force you into getting tyres of a certain width? And what about superstars, what’s so good about them?
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I think you can run all the common tyres on them, certainly standard trampa and mbs tyres.
I don’t think there is anything particularly ‘better’ about superstars over mbs rockstar II but could be wrong. Obvs superstars are more customisable colour wise.
Maybe someone else could chime in with pros / cons between them
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Can you do detection on 10S, but switch to a 12S battery without doing a new detection and have it function fine?
Also, does anyone see any issue with having a 12S battery (external) and 10S battery (internal) both connected via negative terminals, and plugging the ESCs into one or the other via the positive loop key to use one or the other? I can’t see an issue with this other than maybe wether or not the internal battery BMS positive lead is connected to the battery before the loop key (good, only one battery has an
closed loop) or somewhere after the loop key (bad: positive and negative of both batteries connect through BMS)
This would be nice, at my average wh/mi for this setup I could ride for 48 miles, and then simply swap the ESC side of the loop key from the external back to the internal and go a bit slower for another 14 miles, or also carry this boosty guy for a wildly inefficient charge to get an extra 6-8 miles on the internal pack…
While I have never tried this and don’t really know the inner workings of VESC, I imagine it’s not that simple. The first thing that strikes out to me is the ESC low voltage cutoff. It’s expecting the 10S LVCC, and if the 12S were to reach that voltage, the cells would be damaged. If it’s set to 12S cutoff, then there’s way too much unused capacity in the 10S pack. The battery meter would be all wacky as well.
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Get a telemetry device/ bluetooth module for your vesc so you can change settings on the go.
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This is a good point. I’ve got a metr, I think setting up 10S and 12S LVC profiles would solve that. I didn’t even consider this, thanks!
Should I use it on my mountain board?
Are there any downsides?
Should I only use it if riding in mud, snow, wet grass?
What is the deal with
Traction Control
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What household options are available as a release agent for removing fibreglass? I thought if I just use packing tape over the buck then the tape will just come away with the fibreglass?? Then I end up with tape on the inside of the enclosure. I’ve heard of wax. Would rubbing candle wax over the tape work?
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Candle wax might work, but it’s hard to get a nice thin consistent layer because it’a hard when solid, and runny when liquid.
Might have some success with careful application of hot air to smooth things out.
One issue I could foresee is the wax beading up on the tape when melted, and not wetting out.
Car wax is probably your best bet, since it’s designed to be applied thinly and evenly.
Time to experiment!
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Yeah cool. I’ll try the car wax then perhaps. I’ve got a spray version
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Stops wheels spinning to fuck when they lose traction (unless all vesc-powered wheels lose traction, then you’re already full of mud).
Also is really good at being abs when braking. Even if you lose traction on both rear wheels, it still trails behind mostly straight until it grips again with one of the wheels.
It might be terrible for people wanting to purposefully slide/drift, but beyond that i really do not understand why people hate it. It made my commutes so much safer
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I’ve got 2 local guys with boosted xr batteries blinking at them and not taking a charge. Apparently, boosted was cheeky enough to program an error code into their leds that tells you to replace the battery if it drops below a certain voltage. Not sure how they’re managing the not-accepting of the charge though. Bms or Esc most likely.
My plan is to run it on the treadmill for a while and see if the voltage gets back to a level where the charger will start charging again.
My backup plan is take everything apart and force it to charge using my own chargers and any adaptors I might need to make. I’ll start at the bms and see if I can get it to charge that way I suppose but have never fucked around with one before.
B+ and B- are just the standard overall charge inputs or will it be very obvious?
@Battery_Mooch, any precautions or fun facts about trying to regen a board on a treadmill?
Does it matter if the board is on or off?
I have a pass through battery meter and will be monitoring charge levels, any risk of charging it while it’s rolling on the treadmill?
I’d really like to help these guys out as they’re 2 of the only esk8rs near me 
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Sorry, no recommendations…too many unknowns for me to comment on any of it. Go slow, be careful.
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Yes, I’ve heard this actually will work. You could also get in there and apply a charge directly to the cells bypassing the BMS until it creeps up high enough.
But I’ve never had a Boosted board so IDK 
I thought Metroboard was a lot better, and still think so.
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I’ve seen this problem in one of corridor digital videos and they did something similar, they tied a rope to a car, and drove the boosted around untill it charged enough. It worked and they got the battery back and running.
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