Plate collar socket bolt tightens @ 20inch lb.
Collar socket bolts are black oxide alloy.
Threaded clamp collars have twice the contact surface area than smooth bore.
Do not over tighten. Snug to firm is plenty.
If you are experiencing an issue, check the collar gap when tight.
If the gap is touching I’ll gladly exchange out the mount.
We run 12kw on these mounts without issue.
Did you anticipate this issue when designing these trucks ?
The only thing stopping the motors from sliding downwards over time is friction. Using friction for this purpose has been tried before and it doesnt work. Boardnamics used to do it and now they dont.
@jack.luis I appreciate your concern and experience.
I guarantee this has been thoroughly tested and a non concern.
@jack.luis 12kw 50mph at Barrett Junction
Been running/racing long track/ short track/uphill for some time on these without issue.
And I never got close enough to see if the motors/mount were slipping 
Have there been any high mileage tests in rough city streets?
Combined between my 3 12kw 55mph house race boards, Torgo’s V4 race and Street board, Deefs Ground Control, I’d say several hundreds of miles in extreme condition riding in all street conditions. Without issue or concern.
@DEEIF Have you ever needed to re-tighten the collar holding your motors off the ground? How are the streets where you live? How do they compare to NYC?
My streets aren’t bad per say but I’ve ran just under 1000miles on ground control without touching that screw. They aren’t good roads but they aren’t crappy, the only time my mounts have dropped is when the whole axle rotated on me, but that was because I rushed and didn’t let my loctite cure
Hm okay. What does the inside of the collar look like? Is it smooth? Ribbed for her pleasure?
Also, if the axles come out, maybe they can modified to have a keyway or flat spot.
EDIT
Apparently the swing arms hold the motor mount clamp in place rotationally? Is this true? If so, problem solved lol
Doesnt seem true
I just sent v1 mounts to get these v2 mounts so I am interested in this as well!
Pretty sure on the v1’s there was a welded on tab coming off the c-clip which was used to hold the links on either side thus in my mind adding extra security so that the mount doesn’t slip, so interested to see how the new system works as well.
the collar threads on. then clamps in place. so inside of collar is threads.
there is a keyway for the bolts for the radius rods.
the angle between the radius rods attachment points and the motor mounts may be different by board, so there is no keyway for the motor mounts.
The radius rods stop the axle from rotating. The clamps holding the plate should work well i think, especially if they have thread inside… This three link system is very thought through.
Just swapping the .064" motor plate for the CNC .128" plate. Your axel mounting will remain the same.
@jack.luis I think all you need to be more sure the mounts will not rotate is a key way or a simple flat spot,no?
The 3 links are tested and abused very well by Stooge and some crazy other riders without your idea of issue.
After adjusting your setup, just diy a flat spot to the right position, bolt the mount down and you re done, no? 
if you really wanted you could drill a hole for a grub screw into the threaded locking collar and into the axle slightly and lock it’s rotation that way, but that all is just a solution a problem caused by not tightening the bolt down all the way.
You should be tightening your bolts down all the way on boards that go fast.
