Additionally, me and a friend have refined the laser holders, which in all honesty was just me taking inspiration from Lorentz Major’s laser brackets.
This design is cleaner than the previous and will allow for more space between the lasers and battery.
16s6p p45b battery is now done. I can safely say that 96 21700 cells can fit into a hummie deck, just need a bit of routing and a very experienced builder.
Doesn’t seem like there’s much space for the ESC or accessories to fit at first. But with some careful nice layout and cable management, I’ll be able to to fit charge port/power button, bucks and switch.
First thing to do though is put new grip on the deck. With the entire board revamp in progress it only makes sense to put a fresh one on.
Just a little preview of what I’ve got to fit in the tiny space back there.
This doesn’t include the 6 lasers, motor sensors or Bluetooth receivers. To top it off I may want to add an airtag somewhere in there but I’m not too sure if there’ll be too much interference with how close everything is.
What are the dimensions of your pack?
Did you play Tetris a lot growing up?
Not too sure about the height but I know the dimensions of the cutout space it takes up. It’s 530mm long and 143mm wide. Height is like 40mm with braided cable.
Surprisingly no. I can count on one hand how many times I’ve played a Tetris style game. I am a neat-freak though so the cable management in this space is a good challenge for me.
Been progressing with the build slowly but surely. Most of the time has been spent soldering connectors for the light system and making sure each lead is the right length with some slight slack.
The plan is that the buck runs off the battery (always on unfortunately), into the switch, which redirects to another buck converter for the laser lights. In parallel from the switch, another connector will be powering the taillight led cobstrips.
Currently working on the enclosure and drilling and stemless cutting it for the laser diodes and all the switches/charge port. Will update in a couple hours.
Why not run the buck off the bms and use the eswitch? Having it permanently connected to the battery is a surefire way to kill your battery
I got the brackets made and fit them into the enclosure. The design of these is probably as low key as I possibly could get them, while still having space in the inside to not hit the battery.
Got some JB weld plasticweld to fit these on from the outside. In the future I’ll design a more seamless design so it can blend a bit more into the enclosure. Hopefully the joints are properly sealed after the weld sets and I’ve waterproofed the section.
I’m using the 16s Daly, so if that’s an option with this bms I’ll look into it if the original plan sucks too much battery while idle. I do have the BMS connected with an xt60, so in the scenario that this thing guy’s idle draw is insane, I’ll be able to easily disconnect it.
I think I spent a dozen hours researching for ways to use a switch or relay to turn on/off the buck, but any option that was rated for 16s was too big or not a feasible option. A loop-key would be an easy option, but looks a bit clunky 
. I doubt I’ll be away from the board long enough for buck to drop the cells much, which is why I’m fine monitoring it over time.
Ah. I saw the smart bms in the first post and assumed you were using that. AFAIK, the daly has no e-switch.
My advice would be to at least have a loop key. Life happens, you get distracted, batteries die. It happens to the best of us.
Yeah it’s only a matter of time until something happens. I’ll do my absolute best to keep the battery at a healthy voltage before storing. And I’ll hopefully remember to disconnect the buck if I go away haha.
On that note, here’s a preview of the laser lights in action. What’s awesome about this is that I can change the pattern of the lasers, so if one design is boring, I can play around with it.
I’ve now done a test vesc setup and got everything working surprisingly well. First task before the setup was to cut the motor phase wires in half and to replace the 4mm connectors with 5mm ones.
In total I’d say I’ve spent 24 hours of soldering . I only have experience building FPV drones, so transferring those skills to system with 3x voltage of drones + 200+ amps was nerve wracking. In addition, also having to trim LITERALLY every lead in this board and add connectors to make efficient use of space and easy access for future troubleshooting.
Motor detection amid all the other parameters needed to be set went really well, no issues…yet. One option I’m not confident on is whether traction control is needed. Other than that, the light system I made works as expected, I just need to solder on the tail lights and add an AirTag somewhere. Securing the components, waterproofing, then final assembly will commence once those jobs are done.
Is ot destined as a daily or as a weekend if its nice sort of thing?
I have one directly wired but the board is a daily so i dont really care too much. Im VERY concious of rhe loop key though
Honestly I’ll probably be riding this board at minimum 3x a week once the riding honeymoon period is gone. It’s summer here in New Zealand so I got a few dry months to ride this thing to oblivion. This is also my only board at the moment so I’ll be doing maintenance checks on it fairly often.
Waterproofing and final assembly are almost done, just got to solder in the taillights and and secure them, then balance the wheels before putting the final truck on. Trying to route these motor phases and lights through these flex sleeves was a PIA.
The enclosure fits over this nice and tight, which is a relief considering the hours of planning, positioning and modifications I did to every lead to make good use of the limited space. Was even able to fit an AirTag in there 
.
Those Newbee gears look real nice on there
Way better than the clones you run lol
