@jaykup says bluetooth is safer than using a usb cable for updates. That’s good enough for me, and I’ve had 100% success with bluetooth for everything I do on VESC.
I just want to save people the trouble of opening their enclosures, because there’s really no reason to be afraid of bluetooth for FW updates, and perpetuating that idea isn’t useful.
Every single time I use Bluetooth it fucks something up. I feel bad I’ve even sent a vesc back to a retailer in the past just because I tried to do firmware over Bluetooth. I’ve also seen the same issues countless times here and on FB from others.
Bluetooth is shit, trying to can forward and Bluetooth is double shit.
I will continue to be noisy about this 
USB panel mount ftw 
This has everything to do with the particular app/firmware you are using and nothing to do with Bluetooth.
The firmware update process is similarly robust between BLE & USB.
I hate Bluetooth, but for entirely different reasons as someone who develops embedded Bluetooth devices. This isn’t the fault of BLE - which properly implemented is rock solid for anything outside on throttle control.
Yeah I’d agree with you there. It was nowhere near as problematic for me prior to the update. Still had issues but ever since the new tool came out if I touch anything at all it throws drv faults, overcurrent, drops a side etc etc
I’ve done everything with VESC over bluetooth with zero problems (detection, FW updates, app settings, updates over can, etc). Maybe try using a different phone, or using the desktop version.
Yeah whatever works hey. Be pretty naive to believe the same method is going to work for everyone.
This could be us enjoying bluetooth fw updates but you playin
Lol I wish it was. Id love to fine tune while I’m out t-racing.
I plan to use a Dremel Tool to make most of the adjustments needed for this build. I’ve got to cut down 12mm thick aluminium rod, motor shafts and fibreglass enclosure for the ESC heat sink. Would you guys more experienced in this recommend a Dremel for these jobs or should I pay pros to do it at workshops?
The Dremel would be more expensive but a lot more convenient (and fun), but going to the workshop might be wiser to get everything perfect. Which method would you guys go with?
Newbee 4GS Gear Drives arrived. Finally got the correct 20x20 mounting clamps and wheel plates (thnx @Ean.esk8 for the extra absorbing pads).
Despite the clamps matching the dimensions of the Onsra hangers, I still had to shave down the clamps by 1mm to get them to fit properly. Took about 2hours, I tried to first heat them up, then tried using a dremel sanding, but found out that a carbide file did the trick quite easily.
Dry fit them onto the hanger and it seems that there’s plenty of space. These trucks are just perfect for the Hummie deck, no wheelbite, no deckbite, increased wheelbase but still carvy and agile. The addition of gear drives completes this truck setup nicely. Now to wait for my 3DS Situos CNC Hubs and Reacher motors.
Yeah I concur here, the onsra trucks work beautifully on the hummie
Some updates on the build progress.
Borrowed a friend’s SKP Solo for sizing. The ESC “can” fit, but I’d like some extra space within the enclosure for wiring/components, so I’m switching to a Go-Foc D100S. Will use a Flipsky 200-300A antispark switch for this. Def need some more research on these anti-sparks.
Right before ordering the motors I opened and counted the gear drive teeth to make sure I got the right kv. Turns out I got the 38/11 instead of the 44/11 Newbees that I planned this build around. These aren’t available anymore so this may have been one of the last gen-3s to be sold. Luckily I can change to the 151kv Reachers and still get my required speed and a bit more torque.
I had some free time away from studying and drew up a visual representation of my build. This will come up in handy for when I put things together. This is still very ambitious with the available space so some of these LED/Laser features might not be on the final build.
Possible wiring for the internals. Not even sure if this circuit will work or be safe. Going to take a few measures and tests before installing this in the board. Also some methods to reduce electrical noise.
Whether this works or not, it’ll be fun trying to get all this accomplished 
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You don’t need an antispark for the d100s mate it’s got a switch built in. Just put a xt90s on the pack discharge for the initial plug in
I like your diagram it’s fun
Wow I’ve only now just found the manual for the Go-Focs. Good thing I hadn’t ordered the anti-spark yet. I did order about 5 switches though…
Parts are starting to roll in now. First up are the 3DS Situos Rims. Absolutely beautiful CNC design, anodised finish a low profile form. The spiral really compliments the HOTA 6” wheels I’ll put these on. Added a skull valve cap for a small touch.
Gotta say though, fitting the bearings took some work, had to use a heat gun and a hammer to fit them. These also work with any trampa mounting gear drives so my Newbee drives will work, just gotta cut down the wheel plate bolts.
Motors and ESC finally arrived, so the build will now be properly started. First up was fitting the Newbee Gear Drives onto the Onsra trucks. Tons of obstacles such as bolt sizes, tiny tolerances requiring sanding down etc.
Had to cut down the axles by 12mm to properly fit the 3DS hubs and match the truck widths for both trucks.
The 20x20 clamps for the drives were 1mm too small for the onsra trucks, so some sanding/ chiseling had to be done. Had to hammer the clamps down, and add metal shims to one of them as I’d shaved the clamp down too much.
Didn’t have any bolts at the correct length for either the baseplates, or the wheel plates for the drives. I probably cut 30-50 screws changing them all to the correct length. Also countersunk the baseplates to get a more sleek and flush look for the bolts.
Absolutely beautiful, but god damn it’s heavier than I expected. Considering that noone’s put these drives on Onsras and they weren’t made for them, I’m pretty satisfied with he result.
Also adding integrated lights to this board, which will consist of 4 small led strips as taillights, then 6 lasers out the sides similar to the Lorentz Major. Here’s a summary of the process of making this work.
Super rough visual for the electronics in the build. Had too much time on my hands when I was drawing this up.
Lasers and LEDs arrived so I started designing the bracket holders for them. Got a friend to help with the 3d printed portions.
Got the first prototype as a reference for when it’s used on the enclosure.
I’ll be wiring up the entire light circuit when I’m next free. Will definitely change up the 3d print to be at a more aggressive angle, and make the holder a bit smaller. By the end the lasers should form the below pattern. (Imagine a third laser line)
That drive setup looks great. Did you have any compatiblity issues with the Reacher motor shaft and the NewBee gear drive? Can’t tell if you are using a spacer between the motor and the gear drive or not.
None at all. I got these directly from Reacher, and they’re 10mm shaft so these don’t have that stepped down section. I just had to cut the shafts down to length to get them to fit into the drives. If I’d used SKP or Radium’s versions I probably would’ve had to use spacers.
Did a test fit of the drivetrain onto the deck. Gotta say despite it being heavy, it’s slim enough to be in the “Ultraboard” category.
Just gotta spray paint the bolts black and balance the wheels to finish the drivetrain side of things. I used PTFE grease on the drives and holy are they quiet. Added some bearing speed cream to each bearing on the wheels and drives and the freeroll is so insane. I could probably kick push the board even with all the weight.
