New Update on Gathering ideas for parts

Pneumatics get about half efficiency/range for the same battery compared with urethane, usually in the ballpark of 10-15 Wh per km (depending on weight etc YMMV), pneumatics is more like 30Wh per km or far worse if you are racing.

You can take the cell Ah and multiply by number of cells and nominal voltage to get the total Wh. Something like 2.5Ah x 50cells x 3.7V = x Wh

yeah I will only be using urethane wheels

I know there are a lot of motors out there I have just seen a lot of people use maytechs as their go to but im unsure on others preferences

Yah not sure there is a poll, I imagine someone has done an article or thread trying to compare or something but can’t recall having seen it, but this place can get pretty active and I miss a lot. Would look at what “trusted builders” are using (how to define this is loose).

Like I said, no personally bad experience with maytech have just seen people with them break down eventually but that depends on abuse/care and all mechanical things eventually break down.

I don’t feel bad pointing to TB though they are generally good about helping out and providing things ready to assemble (maybe lacking written instructions but generally YouTube walkthroughs for everything). Other places can be harder to contact, go radio silent, or take long to deliver. Given the corona stuff shipping might get hard for everyone but in general things move fast there.

Sleepy here :sleeping: but good luck with your build will try to check in later.

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I’d estimate 10S5P will get you 20 miles with moderate riding and might fall just short with really aggressive riding.

Maytechs sells two motors. The sealed versions and the open can. I’d recommend the sealed cans.

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If you’re running urethrane wheels (I.e. not offroading) why bother with sealed cans? There’s less debris on road that will pollute the can and the motors will run much cooler unsealed.

I’m running unsealed motors and fuck about in the woods regularly and have never had anything other than dust get in there.

Also why the hell do people keep recommending neoboxes? So far there has been zero feedback testing reports from users. How can you recommend a product that isn’t even officially “out”?

@kadeanderson you’re doing research but I can’t say you’re quite there yet if you don’t know the difference between 10s4p and 10s5p and sealed vs unsealed. Good on you for asking and not just buying though.

Careful, you wake Frank :wink:

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I mean I’d also recommend the TB new VESC that’s being worked on because I have some trust in them and see them here, compare with flipsky or maytech or enertion, basically I trust the people I can find here and choke :smiley: (I kid not a fighter but first part is true)

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I can definitely understand recommending a new esc from a reputable vendor who has delivered solid products in the past.

Jeff seems great and I’m not knocking his products because I can’t judge them yet.

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I’m on first batch for neoboxes and they’re not delivered until next Friday ._.

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Yah I was really thinking since not available yet that recommendation was really just to wait and look into that (a hopeful way of telling them to sit and wait). I guess it could turn out to be bad advice in the future when we know more though.

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I’m hoping for a win but the only delivered product so far has been the deck and lots (several) of cracks and splits. Hopefully the story ends there :crossed_fingers:

The maytechs can be good, if battle hardened.

Not to dump on just them. different batches have QC issues. Some folks here will probably swear by them. I use higher kv, closed motors in warmer climates, with a punchy throttle curve and tons of hard starts and stops, on bumpy concrete. I’m asking for loose magnets.

Racestar (who makes the evolve motors) has made crummy motors and indestructible motors.

@Venom121212 Is right about untested gear. the original (mainly 1.7 but also 1.6) focbox singles are so highly regarded, in part bc they have performed over a long period of time in so many different users hands. They are community tested.

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I thought I had seen somewhere negligible differences in thermal performance. And at the price, they’re a minor upgrade if thermals aren’t a problem. Which they shouldn’t be for this build. Plus, doesn’t the sealed 6374 have an additional can bearing?

Thank you for responding ! I would totally agree that I’m not there yet in terms of knowledge! I do learn pretty fast so that is good :slight_smile: I don’t plan to build this until summer comes, so I definitely have time! And during that time I will work to gain more knowledge in the space

Antisparks are all shit, the 15$ and the 100$ ones all will fail, and all suck ass so they do not count :smiley:

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Not all antisparks are shit, gamers antispark manufactured by flipsky that control dt/vt slew rates good. 3D servisas is good as well. And I think haggyboards is bringing their antispark out this month.

What is an anti spark and what does it connect to

More research is needed.

https://forum.esk8.news/t/is-diy-right-for-you/112

In short, Antispark functions as the on/off switch.

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O got it.

Dont know about that new flipskys but 3 of their regular ones have failed on me, 3dservisas seems to be the best of them all but it still drains your battery

either get one in a D596 bms or in a unity, only those 2 dont fail on you randomly like others as i know