I accidentally posted it a few days ago and flagged it for enlisting since I wasn’t ready yet . Just had it unlisted yesterday.
Bet Bet Merci!
Yeah that’s the plan. Going to put foam at each crevice between the N.E.S.E Modules and the Deck Interior Walls and ensure they align with M3 Rods or suitable alternatives:
What I mean though was that I wanted to ensure that the negative terminal wire never touches the the caps by having the wire clamped to the side of the wall like so:
Where the Black wire highlights the black terminal wire and the red represents the clamps.
Though I suppose the foam will accomplish this while at the same time allowing free movement like you were saying. Yeah I think I’m going to go the foam route, thanks man.
One thing I’m worried though is about heat. Will the heat from the batteries be trapped by the foam?
I don’t want to use Neoprene since it seems to be flammable. I rather a foam that can accomplish the same tasks while not being flammable.
Your batteries are so flammable it doesn’t matter if the foam you use is or not Some fishpaper between the wire and caps would be a good solution. Or just more foam. And you should not be using battery settings that heat the cells up significantly; so for a 2P 30Q, keep your battery amps at max 40A and you should be fine
Lol this concerns me a bit. Let’s say somehow the pack starts going up in flames, is there anything I can put in the compartment to slow or put out the flames? I’m thinking of putting fire retardant sheets surrounding the batteries. Bad idea?
Awesome!thank you will do. I know it’s low battery config for 30Q’s but I’m hopping Push Assist will make it worth it.
You might not have space for fire retardant sheets / they might just trap heat inside the battery instead of letting it cool down by spreading to the surroundings, but it could work
But like, you’re already using a NESE pack; if balance wires short they’ll burn up anyway, and the chances of your main terminal wires shorting by means of something that won’t instantly burn up is close to zero. You’ve already got a safe battery
Gotcha, then I won’t worry about it then. Thanks man. Going to order the N.E.S.E modules soon. Won’t expect them for about 2-3 months.
In other news, I’ll have to wait until next year Spring semester to start my thesis since I need a minimum of 18 credits. Should be enough time to get all the components minus the batteries. Hoping @Sender will be available by then to do some senderizing and fiberglass reinforcement. I don’t fully trust this deck as it is now.
Using this from the Battery Basics for Beginners [Serious] Thread, a 42.0V 2A Charger should be good normal charger for the 10s2p 30Q configuration. (Maybe I’ll opt for 3A for 2 hour charging time) . So I’m thinking I should get a 7.5A fuse. Would this work ?
I have one in my 12s charger, at 8A charge current the 10A fuse didn’t blow, and I got a shit ton up to 30A so I can always fudge the current up for high voltage applications
The minimum size is 12mm thick, 19mm wide, about 60mm long…but add 9mm width to use the waterproof cap, and the length can be longer depending on what you need. I can terminate in XT30, XT60, 5.5x2.5, and red 2 pin JST…or any mix, just state your need (2 pin is good for 3A, barrel is good for 5A, XT will excede the fuse)
This is the XT60 terminated one I use for my 12s 8A charger, using a 10A rated fuse
Edit: I can also do 3.5mm and 4.0mm bullets, or 3 pin JST (looks like 1.25mm pitch) or loose bread board type pins…not sure why you would want them, small profile I guess, but I got them anyways so they are also on the table
So it’s not directly the power, but the heat dissipation…so W = I^2 * R…the voltage doesn’t play into how much heat is dissipated, it’s purely based on the current and the unit resistance of the fuse, the voltage affects the current but since it’s a limited current supply it doesn’t matter
Haha just circumstance, I made each board at a different time with different parts so the newer ones are better built (new has fuse built into battery, old have fuse on the charger)
Yeah no worries, I’ll have them for custom order for a while
. Just had it unlisted yesterday.
Some fishpaper between the wire and caps would be a good solution. Or just more foam. And you should not be using battery settings that heat the cells up significantly; so for a 2P 30Q, keep your battery amps at max 40A and you should be fine 
