Need help with P-Fet 100v dc switch

I am using a pushbutton switch to trigger a kelly controller to turn on. The kelly controller is running off 23s and has a wire meant for plugging into a switch/ latching etc. I added some fans powered by a 100vdc - 8vdc buck, and now the switch is blowing randomly.
Switch is rated for 5amps but i suspect the sudden inrush of the caps charging on the buck convertor is arcing the pushbutton switch.

Do i just add a P-Channel Mosfet and call it a day? Anyone want to make some beer money and walk me through this? Help me build a small circuit and order some parts from digikey?

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sorry i’m of no help

your kelly manual should call for a 1k resistor over the switch/contactor used on the b+ line

is this for a grow room or a wind tunnel or something

The kelly isnt’ the issue

its the damn Buck convertor… I don’t have room to add a second latching switch. Want one switch to power/ arm the kelly, and also activate / turn on the buck which in turn turns on the 8vdc fans to cool the controllers and pack

this is all short term, Long term i’ll have a multi voltage/ dual buck, and thermistors, PWM fan control , and some other fun stuff. Right now its just basic.

I could use a 100vdc relay, but they are huge with coil ratings for 100vdc. I could use a standard bosch 72 volt coil/ contact relay, and over volt it, but I would rather something solid state

help me better understand, because this

is not congruent with this


got a model number for the kelly and photograph of your wiring?

just to be clear, you have a latching push button switch right? how much current does your buck/fan setup draw?

Just so I understand what is going on, you are powering the esc logic with 100VDc and the buck converter through the switch? Im not familiar with kelly controller, is the provided voltage from the switch only used to wakeup the esc or is it something more?
Just to give some thinking
What capacitors are on the buck?
Best approach for something like this woul be to have so kind of soft turn on circuit that is controlled by the switch, that means no high current through the switch and mitigation of the inrush for the buck. Depend on the current draw of the buck but if you feed me the info I can cook up something for you to try. Free of charge because thats what the community is about :wink:, helping each other out :slight_smile:

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Yes that’s all it does.
The Kelly is always live and ready to go when it sees 20-100 volts positive.
It’s a really easy setup. No room for primary and secondary switching.
Might use a 72 volt coil relay automotive style Bosch blade relay. Just trying to go solid state.

I’m really confused, because I don’t see a kelly controller in the schematic, and I don’t see the wire meant for plugging into a switch/ latching etc…

Also why a P-channel? An N-channel is what I would use.

Which buck converter are you using?

Similar to these. . I can change the bucks.

Update. It’s this one. 8.3 v. 3 amp

Man, they need to hire a programmer badly

This site is 100% unusable and it’s comically bad

This is on a giant 23" monitor. The buttons are 15cm x 5cm

Oh geez, don’t do that :rofl:

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Maybe something you can concoct using this

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/linear-technology-analog-devices/LTC7000EMSE-1-PBF/LTC7000EMSE-1-PBF-ND/7363797

and this

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/susumu/KRL2012E-M-R007-F-T5/408-1597-1-ND/3737779

and this

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/infineon-technologies/IRF135B203/IRF135B203-ND/6150161

and some various other small parts?

You’d have to invest some time getting this to work right.

@Gamer43 can probably suggest a better FET

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Hold on, I think I have an open source latching button antispark design somewhere.

Forget Pchannel MOSFETs they suck.

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https://easyeda.com/RuBisCO/On_Switch-2610688072df43d9976cee88fc640fe3

Replace the LTC7004 with LTC7001 and the MOSFET with something like the TPW3R70APL.

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Also C3 and C4 need to be >135V for 23S

rehosted the image here in case the link breaks

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Who here is smarter then me and wants to make a few hundred and get some PCBs printed and a BOM for me. I’ll assemble and reflow etc.

Forgot about this.

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I did some of that already.

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Way over kill but would work

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We ordered this once,. They sent a regular antispark,. Ordered again rush DHL, they still sent an antispark that can’t handle 100v. I don’t trust them anymore

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Just to be clear, if you are using 23S, I would use components rated at 135V or more, not 100V.

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