I unfortunately dont have the battery building skills to build one of these badboys. Id only be sticking a premade pack and that’s just no fun… I am interested in seeing the drop deck street deck tou have planned. Great work @tomiboi !!!
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Damn. Current battery is like 85mm wide or I’d be all over that drop through…
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So got. A bunch of Samsung 35e cells which I would put into 10s3p nese modules and got right now a 10s2p battery but in double stack formation but in theory could do a bit of relaying out of the battery
Will nese fit?
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This is art…and awesome… artsome?
Uh, I have 2 integrated decks ready to ride already… and a few more sitting ony my bench for future idea/spontaneus gotta-build-it-eruptions. But you know… an addict needs more and always happy to help, EU is a stretch for you tho I guess 
I could compare it to:
Hyperbeast (lives)
MOV-E(both types) (one lives, one empty)
Neo deck (Soon to live when the neo hubs arrive)
2 DIY carbon/wood (currently empty)
Guess only upside is that its relativly easy to swap internals given somewhat same size 
I’m sure peeps in USA are a better fit tho 
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Beautiful work @tomiboi. I would hop on this right now if I hadn’t have had to leave Denver bc of corona. If you have any left by the time I get back I’d be happy to test one. In the meantime, good luck! Every single one of those decks looks great.
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Wow… thanks guys 
24 responses and no-one bent me over. I have worked hard on these and really appreciate the kind remarks.
I’m going to answer a few questions and then talk a little on the side with people that are interested in helping with testing.
First, I ship world-wide to anyone that will pay for the shipping. I wrap my boards in a thin layer of foam and mail them out in a tear resistant shipping bag. They are all under 10 lbs. Also, I’m quite adept at circumventing import fees.
@RyEnd 27.5 degrees. I thought about going all the way to thirty, but the deck is only 6 ply at the nose and tail, so it’s a bit flexy. This is definitely something that want feed-back about. It can be easily altered. Additionally, I know that people have been liking wider AT decks. Right now my bamboo stock is 10 1/2 inches wide and I can’t really make them wider than 10 inches, BUT my next batch of veneer will be 12 inches wide and I will be able to make decks that are 11 1/2 inch.
The compartment depth is 23.5 mm. It can accommodate any cell under that diameter. I can also make it deeper if that ends up being helpful. I get 1/16 inch of depth for every slice on veneer that I slap on.
These decks are definitely for custom battery makers. I really think that the spacers in the middle of the compartment are necessary to get the best feel and durability, but I’m toying with ways of making the spacers removable, so that pre-made packs could be used as well.
@Grozniy Of course 
I have the materials and plans for a bamboo/Balsa/CF rendition of these decks. One thing at a time 
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Dude you could 3d print the spacers. If you get them out to the community we can design the spacers and get them on thingiverse
That way depending on battery config you just download the spacer you need
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Trust me when I say that is the coolest street deck I could imagine building in and I would absolutely ride the crap out of it… If it could fit 32650 lifepo4 cells since that’s all I’ve got around here. 
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I would love to test one of these out but I don’t know if I can fork out money to make a battery for it lol
What is the exact depth between the lid and bottom of the compartment? I wonder if there is any possibility of fitting lipo packs…
If you made the deck something composite like CF or FG, would you still need the spacer? TB has a deck with a cavity but it skips using spacers and still feels solid to me. I do believe it is cut from CF though. I would love to see the spacer be removable for prebuilt battery packs.
If NESE could fit, I’m still in the game then since I have tons of cells and 3 sets of NESE laying around
Most RC lipo packs are too thick for this. I have a penny board and a park/street deck design in mind, and I thought that it would be fun to make them specifically for RC lipos.
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There is only one way to find out. I’ll play around with it soon.
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Awesome, keep fingers crossed then!
Just as a heads up, I think there is a slimmer/smaller version of the NESE on the horizon too so it may be even easier
This is smart stuff. For the boards with the fasteners on the rim, you could actually just knock out the spacers with a hammer and chisel and get your DIY on.
For the AT board I might actually add two more fasteners to the center. If someone wants to use bindings, one of the binding mounts will have to go through the lid and it might need extra reinforcement.
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I dont know if full bindings would be a smart move for that deck because of that reason. Maybe half bindings like the freebord ones would be ok
I just realized that I changed the depth of the compartments to 24.500 mm. If your 3D printer can print to the 1/1000 of a millimeter, you can make a perfect spacer.
Now that I’m reinforcing the lids with fiberglass, if I fasten it at 6 points, it should be on the board super solid. If It won’t handle full bindings, I’ll beef that shit up until it can 
BTW, for big guys, the boards call all be reinforced with extra fiberglass or even an extra slice of veneer. I got you covered
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Hi @tomiboi I pmed you if you could answer then I will happily pay shipping and have a build ready with build thread within a couple weeks of receiving the board
Really interests din the shorter board
So if you could chat in the pm then perfect
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Half a millimeter should be easy. Most printers can get layer resolution down to .15 mm or .1 mm.
.001 might be harder though but I know you can adjust Z layers at a .001 resolution so you might be able to tweak it that ways.
Also, while not ideal, you could always print and sand down to correct height
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Honestly, I don’t mind making a bunch of 24.500 mm milled spacers of different sizes and shapes to send with the boards for people to play with when I refine these.
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