Where are you sourcing your materials for this project?
Specifically I mean wood.
Should add an option for “no holes thanks”
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Bamboo is actually a grass 
I have a few sources. Are you in the states?
Yep, Just over here in Utah.
Right on. I hope you are doing well over there. You can get 1/16" bamboo veneer from roarockit.com here. You can get dimensional lumber at nwbamboo.com. Both companies are on the west coast.
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Youngblood, I can send you a charcoal rubbing digitized copy if you like
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Updates we need updatessssssss!!
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So I still haven’t gotten the hubs or escs yet, and the battery is still in construction (setback due to the tub being too shallow to route wires above 21xxx cells…so I did this for now
Will replace the top box with stolen focboxes in the tub once I get the battery working, the brackets I need to make the pack are on the way (making a folded nickel pack is hard when you only have the probes built into a shitty welder, but we’re doing the best we can)
But in all seriousness, the deck is really good quality. We have been finding small things to improve here and there (better compartments, forward mount clearance, design aesthetics, port placements, mechanical integrity, etc) so the next round of all these are absolutely amazing
P.S. I am still accepting more middle stages for Sidewinders if anyone wants to see an HKP truck
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Here are some pics of the new kick-tail design that I just finished. I mocked it up with RKP trucks with 180mm hangers and 85mm wheels. I used a rubber spacer but no riser. I have to lean waaaay into it to get wheel bite. I lucked out. The wheel-scallops are in just the right spot. This is based on a twin-tipped, kick-tail/nose mold. It has a spacious kicktail and the nose has a little kick to it. There are a lot of different foot-positions that would be comfortable. It’s a proper pavement-surfer 
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I believe I had the previous iteration of this deck in my hard for a few seconds lol 
I really like the change to the cutout I feel like building a battery for it will be a bit easier this way. I had a question tho, it seemed to me that the cover was a bit on the thin side, are you planning on maybe some sort of fiberglass reinforcement layer for it?
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I love it, but currently in the market for an AT deck. How is your AT deck review going, and when can I buy one?
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The AT is a little while out. There still needs to be a rebuild. If all goes well, I’ll do a small batch of the revised board either late June or early July.
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OK, put me on the list if you’ve got one, and I’ll buy when ready.
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The deck is solid, but is mostly being used to generate feedback for future designs. I know tomiboi has the next iteration more or less in the pipeline already.
The internal compartment on this prototype is a bit limiting, so it’s set up as a pretty basic commuter at the moment while I build a custom battery pack.
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Thanks for the update. Correct me if I’m wrong, but this is the only AT integrated deck? There is not another on the market I can find.
Not on the market, as far as I’m aware. I’ve seen a couple custom/one-offs.
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In order to make AT decks and drop-decks formed veneer needs to be milled. Other ID makers are mostly milling from a very nice block of wood. Because of this they don’t have a continuous grain going from end to end on boards with extreme bends. If they were to try to mill an AT deck from a block, the nose and tail would snap off even with fiberglass reinforcement.
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I wrapped up the twin deck 2.0 that @annihil8ted is testing, but I haven’t heard from him in a second so I hope 1.0 didn’t kill him. It got an overhaul. I changed the shape a little. I also went from 7 layers in the body of the board to six layers and I increased the fiberglass. I did 6 oz across the bottom and 4 oz on the top of the nose and tail.
The compartment is totally different and more spacious. It’s an even 1" deep now. There was an issue with unreinforced lids breaking when testers tried to remove them. They would get stuck, so I beveled the edge on the lid and the deck. Now it pops in and out with ease. Also, I bonded 10 oz fiberglass to the bottom side of the lid and then added 1/8" plexiglass to that. It’s the most technical ID lid on the market. You can put trucks on it and kick it around town. I also feel confident that AT bindings could be fastened to it. Time will tell, but I think I solved that problem.
One more thingthat I did was to bond 1mm of cork to the bottom of the lid before milling. It cut really clean and now the compartment is water tight.
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Hey sorry! Still here 
Just busy riding when I get the chance between work. Trying to put on more miles to see if there any additional damage. Doesn’t seem to be any more damage to the lid btw but I think that’s because the support prevent further cracking. To be clear, the cracking also wasn’t from riding but from removing the lid. Structurally, it’s still sound
The twin has an amazing locked in feeling for carving and getting around the burbs. Love the amount of lean I can get without wheel bite even on pneumies! Bamboo also definitely dampens out a lot of the road vibration. It seems softer compared to my TB Rocket. So far no additional damage to the board has been found from riding. I’ve been going between 0-30MPH and through good pavement, cobbled/brick roads, and poor roads all without any issue or cracking. The only concern is heat dissipation but nothing alarming. The same vesc is slightly warm when inside the twin compared to the TB board but I think that’s 1) Wood is pretty good at insulating and 2) There’s more space inside the TB for better “airflow”. Even then I think it’s a 5-10C difference.
Ahhh so trading bamboo for FG? That in theory should make it stiffer right? Also noticing that there are now less mounting holes?