On another note if you put an 18s4p in the single stack enclosure it will be similar looking to that picture with the 18a7p, the 18s4p will take up the entire length and width of that enclosure leaving you no room for an ESC.
So you will need to double stack enclosure instead if you plan to internally mount the ESC, but k making the 18s4p in a double stack format, like @Ash mentioned won’t make really good use of all that space. BUT! it’s your call 18s4p is still a killer pack especially when made with p45b AND your board will be a bit lighter.
You’ll get the same speed and torque from 12s6p as 18s4p with adjusted gearing. Both have 72 cells. One just uses more volts as fuel instead of more amps, but they still pushing the same watts. Unless jumping to a higher p count, extra money is being spent to use a higher voltage for same watt power.
then I’m sticking to the double stack. but my problem is I’m already about £250 overbudget with the trucks being £400 for a pair. Originally I was going to get a mountainboard from amazon that is advertised as able to take 500lb but I do want to do this right so i am getting everything through this site’s trusted shops.when I put the order through i will ask for stickers to, you know, advertise.
looking over the post and i didn’t reply so, sorry for the late reply.
Going with 8"ers with some risers for more clearance, I’m not racing with it so handling isn’t a massive concern. I noticed on your build you’re using the trigger controller. I don’t like the puck designs so I’ve been shopping around, how does it feel?
in that case, yeah then i’d just get a bigger battery to make use of all that space personally.
or you can buy my battery for cheap and run a top mount esc
🙃 lol
i like it because it gives me more precise control over my throttle and brake. i’d probably prefer a thumb wheel for daily riding on a board that doesn’t have too much power tho. the trigger can sometimes be a bit much when trying to get your finger back in without hitting the throttle or brake accidentally. it can be done but it just isn’t as easy as a thumb wheel. trigger remote thumb wheel
^^ those are the zmotes i’m talking about above. there’s also the vx4 from flipsky as an option for remotes but i haven’t had much use with it. i didn’t hate it but it wasn’t anything special
The potentiometers fail super quick in them, often like 300-600 miles quick. If it fails it can get stuck on full throttle. If you want that remote, definitely get the 3d servisas hall sensor for it. It’s not cheap, but hospital bills aren’t either. Other than the potentiometer issue it’s a not bad remote though as far as I know. Depending on your hand shape it may be a bit awkward to hold.
I much prefer trigger remotes personally for the more precise and smooth control they offer.
Zmote duel trigger is my favorite out of every remote I’ve tried. Also the most reliable. Kamen is great too. I feel it’s best with gear drives. Having that individual control with the freerole is just fantastic.
Only downside is the ergonomics like you meantioned. If it was slightly smaller, it would be the perfect remote.
Co-sign on the bigger wheels. With a 4.4:1 ratio you could easily run 7" or even 8" wheels. I’m 210lbs without any gear and am currently running a 4:1 ratio on 8" wheels on an urban cruiser and I have plenty of torque available. My board never struggles to get me up any hill. As much as I love torque, there’s also a need for a balanced approach. Too much torque and your board is jerky at higher speeds which isn’t very nice.
I’m 150lbs heavier than you bro 155lbs hydrated. currently working on getting that down but i have this issue with muscle my pt says that i’m not the kind of build that looses weight, more converts to muscle… my deadlift is currently about 170lbs. so i need the clearance for the inevitable flex the board will have.
I still think 4.4:1 on 140kv will be plenty of power even with your size, m8. And worse comes to worst, you can always swap pulleys and belts if it’s not working well. You’d be surprised how much power a good pair of motors and a quality esc will put out at that gear ratio/kv.
If you adjust gearing to have the same top speed you’ll have 1/3 more torque with the 18s assuming the battery with less in parallel can still put out the needed amps.
You won’t be able to push the same amount of amps unless increasing p groups, hence the same amount of watts delivered to motor. Both a dv100s and dv6s can use either the 18s4p or 12s6p to the fullest. Play around with the calculator. You’ll see that it’s the same overall power.
when at slower speed he’ll have more power and torque with 18s as he can always do max motor amps and with 1/3 bigger gear ratio. I don’t see what cells used and they could limit the battery amp max.
But you can’t push as high motor amps with a higher voltage. You hit rpm cap. Kv also gets taken into account. You don’t get free power out of a higher voltage system. You are simply changing “fuel” ratio. It comes down to the outputted watts & parts used to support it. I tested around with this a while back in the spread sheet calculator. You’ll end up with same force and max speed.
you won’t even draw the same number of amps as hv boards typically draw much less battery amps than low voltage. if you were to draw the same amps on each board with them both being geared for roughly the same speed, the hv board would be more powerful.
That’s not an accurate comparison tho. You’re pushing the sams amout of amps om each system, so of course the 18s will have more watts. Also push that much motor amps on 140kv?
Sorry, kinda derailing the thread.
In a 12s6p system, pushing 25A per p group, you have a max output of 6480W.
In a 18s4p system, pushing 25a per p group, you have a max output of 6480W.
If you use same kv and motor amps, then yes, the 18s system will have more torque at lower speeds, however my understanding is you can push more motor amps in higher kv systems, but higher voltages can’t run as high kv pushing the same amps, so it ends up balancing, especially when hitting upper limits of motor output.
both the dv6s and d100s max out at 100 battery per motor so i just put them at 80. dv6s maxes out at 180 motor while the d100s maxes out at 200 motor so even then, d100s 18s setup would be more powerful. even if you used the same esc, the 18s setup would still be more powerful which was the point of adding the screenshot. unless you run rc esc’s you won’t really have a boost in wattage
i’ve pushed 140 on 151kv reachers. the 140’s would probably saturate tho as i believe the 150s are right at the limit for the 140a
18s4p is still a killer pack especially when made with p45b AND your board will be a bit lighter.