Where was “there” ?
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Herrenalm in Kolsassberg
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So basically I went from around 45A Battery and 85A Motor per VESC with the old setting to 65A Battery (combined - Dual with the correct multiply option now) and 115A.
So Like I mentioned the torque is a lot weaker with the current setting - so I might try to find a sweet spot that is a little higher than my current setting but still safer than my old setting
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I got the lights and the switch that comes with it is huge haha. Is it just a basic switch? Think I could swap it out with something smaller so I could build it into the enclosure?
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Sure every switch will do.
When turning the switch off and on fast you will change through the modes.
Normal mode
Low power mode
strobe mode
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Some more details:
- Upgraded from my 12S4P to 12S6p (30Q) because I wanted a little more total height climb capabilities
- Removed my Flipsky Anti Spark Switch because the MOSFETs blew (the classic Drain to Gate short
- Decided to make a Loop Key with a socket
- Changed the Box and overall design a bit with an all new Round Voltmeter
- Changed the charging socket to a high current socket
- Used a special foam on the bottom of the board with springed screws to have a solid mount but not limit the boards flex
- Had to prime and spray paint the box because it usually comes in grey
Pretty stoked with the result - was well worth the work
I probably will try a new loop key design that is less high and has a little more modern shape to it
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Stunning work dude! Hope the paint on the box stays okay it looks pretty finee. And will you upload the loop key part on thingiverse?
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yes I will upload once I printed and tested it of course 
Thanks for the kind words
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That’s looking slick, man. What enclosure is that?
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Its that one… I just sanded and primed it and then painted it with black matt spray.
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Nice. I’ll be doing the same with this enclosure for a 12s7p. It’s a bit smaller than yours by the looks of things.
https://www.digikey.nl/product-detail/en/bud-industries/PTS-25338/377-2420-ND/5886247
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Well, 99% sure, yeah. I’m working with @pjotr47 and going off this as a reference:
That’s a Peli 1150, which has slightly smaller internal dimensions than the Bud-25338.
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Got any photos/details on this? Are you using threaded inserts in the deck or bolting straight through?
I didn’t make any photos but its basically just something like this:
These springs are in between the case and the top of the screw
And the Foam is a double sided adhesive foam type just like that one (between the case and board):
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Love this. My box is 200 x 200 x 130 tall and I’m hoping to fit a 12s6p. We’ll see what happens 
Might need to stand the unity up or get a custom L shaped pack made lol
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The problem is that I made my battery pack for another case so I could if I wanted make a completely new one and easily fit a 12S7P inside my case - however I just added 2P’s to my 12S4P to make it a 12S6P and the dimension was not optimized for my new case.
However I was able to add a big heat sink for my BMS and had enough room to run all the cables inside.
So I am quite happy with the current box. Could have ended much worse
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Looks great! You think you could shell the loop key face and make the loop key wire go through the top? Might shave down the profile a bit.
Regardless, a very clean solution.
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