One little problem. The X braces I have from @Savage1 (which are beautiful) have a hole for M5 hardware, as does the MBS deck. But the Flipsky trucks have M6 holes for mounting. I have these nice stainless bolts and nuts with a T25 head and would love to use them, but I think I’m going to drill out the X brace and deck to be able to use the M6 hex head hardware I also have. Also, the M6 hardware will actually fill out the countersink in the X braces.
Imma give u a warning now u need to send back that Antispark switch and get the 16mm bigger version flipsky sells for the maker dv6 because of the capacitors being large on the maker dv6 even when u power the vesc off the Antispark switch will still detect power from the vesc and turn itself back on. Been a annoying issue that was happening on a build i did for someone with the same switch and vesc setup.
Also make sure to add some foam underneath that vesc enclosure u made so if u hit a bump goin way to fast or decide u wanna jump on this board with bindings, ur vesc wont cutoff randomly also another lil issue i had experienced with the Maker Dv6.
Is there any danger in that? So it’ll still detect power, but for how long?
I have rubber sheet for underneath the enclosure, but it’s pretty dense. I’ll see what I have that’s a little softer. Any other fix for that? That’s a little disheartening, I thought the DV6 was solid. I’m also having trouble connecting with bluetooth…
Also the Dv6 is solid but its just a slightly better version of a flipshit vesc, so it does have its own issues. If ur gonna unplug it u might as well make a loop key setup and just have ur board setup like that.
indeed. And for the bluetooth issue make sure all 4 of the wire pins are in the correct place on the uart port. If all pins are in he proper spot and u still cant connect to ur bluetooth swap the pins for tx and rx data connection. So basically place the Tx pin in rx pin slot and Rx into Tx pin slot.
and make sure in app settings > general that “ppm and uart” is enabled on both sides of the vesc.
Also please never make any changes to ur vesc via bluetooth if possible, ur putting ur life in the hands of the vesc and the board itself everytime u ride so u should never change any settings wirelessly as if the connection drops for watever reason that could lead to u getting badly hurt while attempting to ride the board. Plus Mobile vesc tool can be finiky when changing settings via bluetooth. And some ppl swear by only using bluetooth to do any changes,updates to vesc but imo its the dumbest shit ever because of wat i mentioned earlier.
And lastly since ur rocking a 12s5p p42a with 225amps continous but the maker can only do 120 amp continous for ur battery current limit which is the absolute highest amp discharge the vesc is capable of dropping while full throttle ur motor settings should look as follows:
Motor max brake= -80
Battery current limit (per vesc side)=60a at the most but 40 or 50 if ur a bit more conservative.
Battery regen (high speed brakes past 20+mph) = -12 to -15a depending on ur preference of how strong or weak u want ur brakes to be.
Also ur motor current controls how ur board accelerates at low speed and hill climbing capability, so the lower ur motor current the shitter ur acceleration and hill climbing will be.
Oh and fuse ur charge port, do not ever let ur board charge without a fuse because if for watever reason that charge port sparks or anything it can send that surge of current and cause a battery fire and put ur ass on the news.
I Agree that mobile apps can be finiky but if you use Bluetooth with the pc its exactly like pugging in a cable. Even when it disconnects mid software update it wont break. Just make sure to read the settings again after your re done to confirm everything is right. But you should also do that anyway even when using a cable.