why better? and imagineer how eggzakery this would look incomparison to being chucked up in a drill-motor???
sure you “could” make that work… but a drill motor has a chuck… easy peasy hook-up… and usually they have a rated RPM if you don’t happen to have an optical tach… voltage is easy-peasy to obtain…
I’m just saying this method “could” work but introduces complexity…
but I don’t mind if peeps skin their own cats their own way… but peeps been doin’ it with drill motors for a long-long time…
with an optical tach there is no need for constant voltage supply…
in fact… for science I charged up my cordless, spun it up… hit the optical tach and it was so close to the rated 3600 rpm… i don’t even bother with the optical tachometer any more, full charge and pull the trigger…
3-maybe 6 times… once or twice on each phase… average the results and I have a reliable Kv measurements in 5 mins…
I have an 18V cordless with a brushless motor that should be able to do 2100RPM. I have to check the corded hammer drill but that thing is old. Pretty sure it will spin faster though. I’ll have time for this tomorrow. Plus I need to get a white Back to the Future Doc coat first.
I have 3 pairs and a @ducktaperules stovepipe hat that i wear for science… if it’s the great unknown, I have the magic-eightball app and a merlin hat that I wear with steam-punk goggles…
Ok, done some testing on BLDC. First I’d like to mention that apparently I’m not good at tweaking BLDC because the Flipdick keeps throwing DRV errors. Second, it’s my first time tweaking BLDC and it’s not as straightforward as FOC. I haven’t been able to get to the same ERPM as on FOC without DRV errors. Obviously, it’s me and not the FSESC. I have whipped out the optical tacho only to find the batteries dead. Getting new batteries tomorrow. Reading up on BLDC settings.
for science fully charge your cordless… and do some quick pulls to a stable voltage…assume 2100rpm and see what that gives you for Kv… you can always redo it or opto-tach the drill motor later…