Best answer I’ve heard yet. I’ve had two very bad falls. One was due to the ppm ground line becoming slightly unsoldered to the esc. It crossed with the hot line causing my board to go full send as I was taking a corner at 20-25mph. Not fun that was a broken tailbone and puncture wounds from my keys jabbing into my hip.
An other newbie question. What uart functions do you lose by taking away the motor sensors? Is it just temp or is it all of them?
Excuse me?!
Until you get your ass handed to you on acceleration by an 8S R/C ESC build running sensorless BLDC, which also happens to be super reliable.
This is not true, BLDC is louder and pedestrians can hear you better. Plus it sounds dope. Unless esk8 is illegal where you are.
Also a bit more top speed and range iirc
statement may have been a bit sweeping…
@Ace you just lose the temp and hall. All the hall sensors do is tell the esc where the motor is at any given time. Which way it needs to rotate, once you are moving they do nothing at all so if you are rolling then they are irrelevant but if you are starting from a dead stop then you will get some “cogging” which is where the motors will stutter until they start to revolve in the direction you want. Basically all you need to do is a small push or slight hip flick to eliminate the need for them.
I use SK8 with sensors, they are strong motors…My wife rides Maytech motors, sensors died, I set her up with BLDC , not problems at all…And sound of cogging it is not bad at all, also she can start from full stop without any issues…
Is the 6380 actually 80mm in length or longer? TB website does not list dimensions.
Same but it does depend on how hard you hit the throttle. If you gear for a fast but not rip your soles off acceleration then its possible to eliminate cogging completely. You can also do this in throttle curving. I have a 2 speed remote and silly amp settings on my daily which I can just flat stick off the line in “slow mode” (still gets up in the 30s) so when I am in a city environment and traffic etc I ride in this mode. In full whack mode I would do a backflip if I tried to smash the throttle. I think @longhairedboy has some tricks with foc that can eliminate the need for sensors.
Yes; just measured 79.94mm
crank up the startup boost and use something based on v6. Or find an ARC200 from freefly. JAke does this shit all the time. I’m all about sensors though because I like dead quiet startup from a backroll in sand caked with molasses.
yeah. Its amazeballs. We blew up a hand soldered early beta unit then got a pair of the early production models and they’re kicking ass. If the unities dry up i’d be fine switching over if I found an switch worth a shit. They do behave better on heat sinks though. My set are bolted to an aluminum plate.
@longhairedboy you build with unities? I wasn’t expecting that… what kind of reliability have you had from those?
I don’t actually have the FlipSky version, I have the one @Gamer43 hand built. I’m waiting in him to do a group buy to get anymore, let him make some money.
Flipsky sent me a couple of them, I haven’t had time to adequately test them because school sucks.
They survived my mountianboard so far, I hope during the holiday I can bring my boards with me and test them extensively.
It’s entirely gratifying to receive these replies the day after I bought an official Flipsky version Smart Switch.
Lol, you should read more 
How high are you running these, how many amps are you pushing. Every esc is great on the forum until we race them 40mph uphill