The 105mm donut wheels and hub motor sleeves are definitely more comfortable than the 90MM wheels.
I have bought the Puaida donut hub motor Sleeves, and much prefer their more rounded profile when new. They are a bit softer and more comfortable than the meepo 105 sleeves too.
Quieter too, at least until both lose their ‘tread’
The Meepo 105mm sleeves were kind of noisy the first few miles and took a while before the tread was gone and the near silence returned.
My Meepo 105mm sleeves came on the 540watt hub motor hanger kit, and they had the urethane cast onto plastic, which is not nearly as good at sucking heat out of the magnets as aluminum, but meepo said they no longer have their urethane cast onto plastic, and any wheels that are, are old stock.
My hub motors are slightly different design than those on a new V5, but they accept the same sleeves.
The Puaida motor sleeves are cast onto aluminum, and sit a little bit wider on my motors for a bit more track width, and they were significantly cheaper when I purchased them( 3 sets now) but have not compared prices recently.
The loss of range switching to 105s from 90’s was not nearly as much as I expected, and not really significant, but there are basically no hills in my area. I also expected there to be more torque loss than there was, so that was a pleasant surprise.
Be careful to fully seat the allen wrench when removing the Allen key sleeve bolts, and it is probably wise to do it with the motors warm to hot from a recent ride. Start the new bolts with your fingers, not any screw gun, to prevent cross threading, and when you retighten the new bolts, Do so slowly in the star pattern in stages, and do it again once the sleeves are hot from a ride.
Bring the allen key on your first ride after replacement, and if you hear a rattle or any new noise, stop somewhere safe, and give them a once over.
I have rarely found that any more regular tightening is needed after that second hot retorque.
You will likely need to add baseplate spacers and longer hardware to keep the wheels from biting the deck at full lean, and adding a wedged riser to the front baseplate to give it more steer and less wedge to the rear can increase higher speed stability, but tese modifications are personal preference, and requires experimentation, and can muddy the waters if changing too many things at once.
When you use new bushings the board side bushing should be the same height as the one you remove. shorter or taller will screw with teh geometry and put more pressure on the edge of the Pivot cup bushing and make it feel odd, and wear far quicker than it otherwise would.
Upgrading to a extended range battery is a viable strategy. Does it fit inside the original battery enclosure or do they ship it with a new larger enclosure? Looks like it is a 10s2p using 20 Samsung 40T 21700 cells, in the photos. For 288Wh total
https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/samsung-40t
Looks like the original battery is a 10s2p 188 watt hour battery made with 20 Samsung 20R cells(18650)
I have a few different range extension methods, and have built a 360 watt hour 10.0AH 10s2p made with Tenpower 50Xg cells and 0.2mm copper busbars, for minimal voltage sag.
More recently I got the Meepo Cyclone 107 airless rubber wheels, and if the 105mm donuts are a solid 35% more comfortable than 90mm urethane, the 107mm airless rubber is another 35% more comfortable on top of that.
I can get 12 miles of range pretty easily with the airless rubber 107s and a 360 watt hour battery riding agressively at close to 200Lbs weight.
The Cyclone 107mm airless rubber wheels and sleeves are closer to 108mm when new, and the torque loss is more noticeable, as is the loss of range and the free roll.
Traction on wet surfaces and over sandy / loose rocky sections in intersections is Much better than urethane, and transiting rough surfaces / sidewalk cracks, and light offroading is also much improved over urethane.
But smooth surface mindless carving, I still prefer the feel silence and free roll of urethane.
Exploring new areas, the airless rubber is much more confidence inspiring, but expect a 20% range cut. Exact % much is dependent on your weight, and the road surface temperature, with hot roads and hot motors making them far softer.
Dialing in a more precise carvy feel with Riptide bushings and pivot cups is a usual recommendation for prebuilt boards.
When you get the extended range battery, keep your original battery at about 36 volts for storage.
If you have some DIY skills or are willing to learn how to solder, it is possible to use that original battery as a range extender battery, BUt both batteries must be within 0.1 volts of each other and preferably less than 0.05v when you parallel the batteries.
You can’t just run one battery down and then plug in the second.