MBS Pro 100 APS80100 Versatile

A review of the 80100 motors from Alien Power System that equip this build.

I have chosen de 130KV sensored version.

APS cut for free one side of both motors axles. I needed to file them a little more so as to make them fit the E-TOXX chain drive. The gap in the middle is very small.

The two motors don’t make exactly the same noise. Bruno from APS told me it was not a problem and axle and bearing tolerances can explain that.

I needed to cut phase cables and removing enamel so as to solder connectors was really harder that what I’m used to with 6374 motors.

I also needed these to mount chains :

There is two different setups for this build.

1 - Flipsky Dual FSESC6.6 with Aluminum Heatsink - 8" wheels - gear ratio 10/35 :

(HAMMOND 1590XXRD as box)

2 - ROXXY BL CONTROL 9120-12 OPTO - 9" - gear ratio 10/40

(MULTICOMP AB78W as box)

The Turnigy Transmitter Bag Carrying Case can carry 4x Turnigy Graphene 6S 12Ah, but I didn’t like riding this way because the board got too heavy.

2X Turnigy Graphene 6S 6Ah (12S 6Ah) are OK for having fun.


Dude! That enclosure looks perfect for the flipsky! Nice work!

1 Like

Regarding Flipsky Dual FSESC6.6 setup :

Battery : Turnigy Graphene 6S 6Ah 60C in series (12S 6Ah).

Il tried both ACKMANIAC 0.84 and VESC-TOOL 1.16 firmwares.

1 - ACKMANIAC 0.84 :

2 - VESC-TOOL 1.16 :

It was quite the same ride. Motor & Battery Current Max 120A ; Motor Absolute Maximum Current 250A ; Throttle Curve Explo 33%.

80100 motor detection is really easier with official firmware, and may be better because riding feels smoother.
I use slightly less current with official firmware whereas power feeling is the same.
With 80100 motors and contrary to 6374 motors, I prefer the official firmware to ackmaniac.

Comparing to ESK8 6374 192KV motors :

  • Pros :
    More power for the same current
    Less heat (just a bit though)
    More distance ridden for the same battery
  • Cons :
    The rear gets really heavy, and on dirt the rear sometimes try to go front at higher speed
    Jumping is harder, but pop is really good on that MBS Pro 100 and I thought it would be harder.

At the end, these 80100 make a really nice build on bad hilly road, with a lot of torque. On dirt, 6374 are better (SK3 > SK8 IMHO), thanks to less weight and more balance.


Nice write up and totally agree with your conclusion :ok_hand:
Why you needed this and couldn’t just use a normal chain link?


Thanks! Without the OFFSET LINK I couldn’t close chain in any motor position on the mount. I think it depends on how many teeth you have on your motor and wheel sprockets.


Today my left 80100 makes a weird metal noise. It has come harder to turn.

Dead bearing?


What did sos cut for you? I am trying to figure out this chain drive thing too

Sorry I don’t understand what you mean

he probably meant aps.

1 Like

Doesn’t sound like magnet clicking, my guess would be bearing problems.

One side note, how the heck do you get a consumption of 20wh/km with theese motors!? I never gotten below 24wh/km on 8"


Latest ride : 21 Wh/Km average

I ride them very hard though
8’’ wheels
130 KV

Very happy with them
Huge torque
Never hot
Weight on rear makes drifting easy


Hmm well might be that the 130kv are just more efficient than the 180kv ones.

Might also be that I’m heavy boi

OK, so much dirt inside :

I don’t know how to get this bearing off, if someone can help?…


It’s just pressed on with the outer ring for the bell. Either you have a big pulley/bearing puller or you hit the ring on gently with a hammer till it moves.



I was about to buy specialised tools, but I finally founded what I needed in the garden…

The 6109 and one of the 6108 were dead. 6109 in particular got filled with dirt, despite it’s ZZ.

I’ll replace them with 2RS bearings (with rubber seals on both sides), to follow APS’ advice.


nice disassembly guide from @Benjo:


I opened the other 80100 and got some surprise :

This motor sounded different since the beginning.
Actually, the bigger bearing seat scrubbed red phase, destroying heat shrink tube and then enamel.

That’s how looks the other motor :

I tried to fix that using epoxy (but maybe went wrong picking up one that is good til 70°C…) :expressionless:

The ways it looks after :


I reassembled motors.

Now one of them (the best made) makes a shit noise when turning.

I wonder if I didn’t fuck one or both of the bottom bearings when strator snapped back into the bell… I don’t know whether it’s possible of not. :unamused: Yet, it’s hard to get the strator going back into the bell “gently” because of magnetic forces involved.

Because I added a little bit of LOCTITE 648 into lonely upper bearing, I couldn’t unmount motor anymore… I did that because of marks of shaft wear at this place.

When heating shaft with a heat gun so as to melt LOCTITE, I’ve heard some little noise. I was just heating the shaft and not the strator, but anyway a crack appeared on it!!! :hot_face:

These motor are damned… I’d prefer they cost twice the price, without having so much of work to make them durable.