MBS COMP 95 / FOCBOX UNITY / SK3 6374 / 12S4P MOLICEL P42 A (NESE 2S4P) / PELICAN 1200 / NANO X / CHAIN DRIVE ISO6B

I would also stay away from the trampa wand…

I didn’t know it was wrong, but thanks for the information I think maybe I’ll go with the flipsky

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Yeah. If you want a thumb wheel it is a solid option.

I have no personal experience with this but people also love the Hoyt Puck

I am married to the mini…

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:+1:t4: :fist_right:t4: :bikini: :moneybag: :fist_left:t4:

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Wow… how many boards you have?

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Too many dude… I have a problem…

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You are creazy jajjajaja

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this if that is late, I take like 7 hours and I only take this

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nice work!
I want to see this work badly, very few people will do what you are doing. cheers!

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New parts arrived today

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Why did you decided for a chain drive? What are the advantages?

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more than anything why it was cheaper and easier to get, I could take the whole game for about 70usd already sent to my home

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thinking about this, a spare wheel holder to mount it on the pelicase

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Clamps are ready

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With my configuration it would make sense to put an anti spark xt90, I would limit the current to 90a when the battery could provide 120a, is it enough with the one that comes integrated in the unity?

[Uploading: ED83C3EA-DDB3-48BB-8949-
I wonder if there will be a problem with the motor magnets and the threaded rods; I was thinking of putting heat shrink on these to get them to repel a little

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It has been some time since I no longer published updates but here is my progress
I have almost all the parts, I only need the nese modules and some connections for rgb to arrive; I tried to solder the rgb but they are a pain of balls
I think I may have the adapters tomorrow from a local electronics store and if not I will have to go to amazon
For the led strips I will make a channel with the rauter and then cover with transparent epoxy; I can get cheaper resin for encapsulation but I don’t know if it works, if anyone knows speak right now
I don’t know if I should make the channel right in the central part of the roof or on the sides; I think that if I do it in the central part, the roof may lose resistance, what do you think?


I had some advancements in the motor mount and align and fix one, I am waiting for the glue that I put on the clamp oppressors to dry so I can put the other since I do not want to move it much, I think I will put a little heat shrinkable on the bar threaded to prevent it from affecting the magnets of the magnet (since nobody answered me if it affected or not so I will suppose the worst)

Regarding the wheel sprockets, I took them to a lathe workshop where they helped me make the 5 holes for mounting and remove weight by expanding the hole in the axle, they only charged me 15usd to do that and make the taps for the motor sprocket.

I had to manually modify the covers for the engine sprocket since with the spacers there was a very small space between the wheel and the cover and I was worried that if the tire suffered impacts it would rub

I also printed the box for the focbox unity, I forgot to put the hole for the switch but it was easy to solve it with the hand drill
I am making a stainless plate to put it as a cover and thus fix the unit and it works as a heat sink


Also lengthen the motor cables and solder mt60 connectors to where I will directly connect the bullets from the unit

I proceeded to paint everything with a spray, I hope the painting lasts

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Was it hard to solder those sk3 ?

if it was difficult, copper repels tin
What I did was separate the wire and make a braid
something like that

That esc case looks sweet dude.