I would if I could, Ill be pulling 15A worth of accessories. The max pull from the esc is 3A so this is not possible.
Some accesories (3) will use the esc output but most will not.
I can run the esc as discharged. I have a 320a charge/discharge bms but I was going to run as bypassed for the esc (discharged for the lights still) because thats recommended by the community. What are you uncomfortable about?
I just contacted prusa and my mmu2s (multimaterial) will ship within a week! (been waiting 2 months). This will allow me to print multicolour for the stark industries logos etc and have the tpu gasket fused directly to the enclosures. PETG + TPU bonds well from my understanding - better than tpu + abs/pla
Ahh cool, I hadn’t realized the accessories were that power intensive. My discomfort is to do with not having anything designed to break a fault current if something goes wrong. With a big pack like 16P, even the worst cells available can push short circuit current over 1000A, and with decent ones that are likely used here could be several times that. At
Using a discharge BMS has downsides like inevitably losing some energy, but compared to having a 100KW heater under my feet with some already semi-volatile material I’d prefer the safety. Maybe get some really damn nice fuses?
Oh wow. When I looked at the discharge/bypass debate I thought it was about protecting the battery from the esc not protecting the esc from the battery! If this is true, I will run it as discharge as this bms is very capable of that.
To be fair it is both, and I was mostly focusing on protecting the battery from short circuits. A bad ESC (cough cough flipsky cough) can go off the deep end and become a short in a really bad situation and if its own current limiting isn’t amazing it’ll be bad, but there are plenty of ways to accidentally create a short from loose connections to worn out insulation from vibrations. If all of these are “downstream” of a capable BMS (except like the wires leading to the BMS and the nickel strips), then you’re safer.
As I said though there are still downsides, I used a charge only BMS on my first build because I couldn’t afford a high current discharge one, but it wasn’t a great plan even with a 3P pack of older less efficient cells.
Surely just putting a fuse on the lighting + accessory circuits would mitigate that problem. Plus having appropriate sized wire would mean the wire acts like a fuse at 1000A.
I am curious if others disagree with the BMS sentiment, but just for context:
The maximum power an entire home can draw here (and in all/most of the EU) is ~12kW, and a single mains application can only take <3kW. The pack isn’t gonna sustain that power for long, but long enough to be Not Fun™
Hmm well actually the appropriate wire acts like a current limiting resistor, which is better than nothing but not a fuse. When you exceed the rating on a fuse, it physically disconnects the circuit very quickly and in a small physical space. This means very little energy is required to break the circuit, so obviously little of it is converted to heat/“damage”.
With a current limiting resistor, lots and lots of energy is dissipated. It does mean that you never really hit the 1000s of Amps in any one spot, but if or when it breaks the circuit it doesn’t do it in a controlled manner and will only do it if the copper melts or burns a hole in the silicone
Instead of using a dial, I’m thinking I will use this keypad! This will also mean I can use it to disable the security system! Instead of having a hidden switch.
Ex. #1234# indicates security system interaction. *17262 indicates sound/light mode and play full list of sounds (#1-20#). Abcd is something else…
My point was specifically about the lights and accessory circuits because that was what the original question was about. Protecting the main circuit is another issue with differing opinions on how it should be done.
Maybe make the outside lines of the yellow blocks silver to really match the armor look and add thin black symmetrical but circuit lines around the tape.
Like black lines spreads from the arc reactor heart and from both ends of the board where ur trucks would be. And add a slightly and i mean slightly thicker black border around the reactor and stark logos to give it just a bit more pop and stand out more.
The black border around the arc reactor was a great suggestion. Black circuit lines or cyan? How is the pattern? Too many stems, too few branches splitting from the stems, thickness? How do you feel about the silver around the yellow?
I’ll add the circuit lines around the front truck but back truck will mostly be covered by my esc+bms+etc enclosure and front truck will be davega. I think it would look bad to have it merge into the yellow? Yellow is for feet ofc. The back enc will cover up the whole medium red part. (I ride goofy) Davega will leave room to side for a couple lines…
Add silver on the other portion of the yellow tape. The circuit line patterns u made up looks nice try to add maybe 1.5mm more thickness to it as well as slightly longer around the reactor but davega lines length are perfect and cyan with black outline and full black circuit lines and see which one u like best. After that it should look pretty much perfect. Oh also if u can u know how the reactor starts off blue and the closer u get to the center of the reactor the more white it becomes try to add that in as well see how it turns out. The Raw/silver davega is a excellent touch to the front part of the deck as well
my davega is red sorry thats just the picture i had also it doesnt matter what the middle blue colour of the arc reactor is because I will be cutting it out for my light panel that will go under the griptape
oh if ur cutting a panel then nevermind about the color fade idea then on the reactor. And dam though u was gonna use a silver davega i think that woulda looked sick but red is still fine as well. Pic 3 is the best the black outlines around the circuit lines are perfect not to thick like pic 2 but not super thin to the point where its just full cyan lines, adds that beautiful contrast we want. Same goes for the silver lines added to both sides of the yellow space where feet wil lbe place adds that nice contrast to make it all come together.Cant really think of anything else to add outside of once this tape finally gets made and applied to the board maybe adding rgb strip underneath the deck and making it cyan and white.
Thanks so much for your suggestions they’ve been great! If I stick with the pcb lines then ill definitely go with v3. I’m not sure if I want them because they wont light up like the triangle. Also iron man’s suit doesnt have them. Idk if it looks tacky or I like it
Currently I’m finalising my bottom enclosure so I can design the bottom vinyl around it. My idea for the bottom vinyl is mostly red and include two blue plasma beam (the thing in iron mans hands) near the trucks
I think I will print the top as a vinyl too instead of griptape because splattergoat is foreign vs I found a canadian company for vinyl so shipping will take prob 2 wks vs 4 and it will be cheaper. i will just add generic black griptape on the yellow patches and spray paint the grip tape patches with iron man spray paint gold which I will buy soon (will be spraying my mbs matrix ii trucks, hubs, and tires gold. I ordered mbs t3 yellow tires so it wont look too bad if gold rubs off at contact areas?
What do you think I should do with my gear drive and motors? Also yellow like trucks or red?
I think I will print the bottom battery enclosure in red and spray with iron man red. Then have top back truck enclosure yellow spray iron man gold
The variation in height and shape of the spacers highlights how important it is to have this model of the deck. It would be impossible to mount 8 of these flat topped yellow enclosures without these spacers. I dont know where I would be without you @EreTroN
Bottom vinyl. Photon beam under reach truck. I have lines showing where the truck holes will be. The truck cover the white centre. Iron man uses the photon beam in each glove when flying to help him stear, similarly, my two photons beams which ‘transmit’ through the truck to help me stear?
Which one?