Got 96 nickel pieces to cut. Halfway done. Going to get the welder from a friend in a day or two.
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Score a small piece with a knife and put it in water to see if any rust forms, some nickel strips are often just coated steel strips which are sold as pure nickel.
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I did that and put it in vinegar. It’s that okay? I’ll check it in 12hrs.
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Ah forgot to add that it should be salt water, im not sure just vinegar will do.
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My own tpu spacers 
I’m going to rework the design a little so they come up and wrap around the black a little. Like a little lip.
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That thing is a monster. Not gonna lie, I’m a bit nervous for your batteries with a 3d printed enclosure hanging that far below your board. I know you did that stairwell test and such, but I’m scared looking at it again on the actual board. Hopeful you prove me wrong, though 
Following this thread has been really enjoyable
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That’s really nice to hear! I didn’t think it’s enjoyable. I was kind of just using it for my own notes so I have a record of everything I did.
Trust me I’m even switching to a more heavy duty material after seeing how the stairwell one broke, even though the reason the stairwell one broke is not present when the actual battery is inside. The new material doesn’t look as nice and is hard to work with as you can see with those rough lines on it and the bottom is more warped (less perfectly flat). I will likely sand the rough lines a little and they will also be less visible after spray painting.
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My charger is done! Soldered xt90, crimped bullet blug in the middle, soldered lp20 charger adapter. All in silicone tube with fiberglass tape around. Lp20 and xt90 have some heat shrink tubing around them. I did a pull test for my solder and crimped joints. Solid. 2pin Lp20 used by lacroix and other high end brands so we can share chargers!
Apparently Lp20 is also used by RVs. I’m hoping lacroix and others follow this diagram of pin2 = -ve and pin1 = +ve. But if not I can switch the bullet connectors!
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Bro. You can’t do all of this and just put plain black grip tape on it…
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exact same color as tiresWhat about glass frit? Yellow griptape is gonna get real dirty real fast.
Wait. Please tell me your plan is not to spray paint this grip tape lol
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Not yellow mate. Gold
Gold frit or those metal studs like brown5ticks board could look awesome on the red deck colour.
Think frit gonna be an issue tho. Prob wouldnt apply well over a vinyl wrap.
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Please forgive my ignorance, it’s clearly gold not yellow. I’m just a color blind pleb who knows not how to discern the two.
In regards to the wrap that is a great point, didn’t think of that piece… A quick forum search though and I think it’s been done a few times? I saw a longhairedboy post about one he did for a customer and another from glyphiks over on freesk8
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It is 
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People use clear griptape all the time… I used it because I wanted to add an effect to see what was below it. Many people use it if they like the wood grain or design and want to see it. Other like myself modify the deck and want to be able to see that and still grip to the board. So yes it is viable
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8 segments or 4? I’m leaning to switching to 4 because I need more room because of the nickel adding to the width of the p groups. I will get more room (72.7 vs 150.4/2=75.2 (-1 for 2mm spacer) after making walls whicker). By not having a gap in between, the extra room allows me to make those walls thicker. Though the whole thing will be less flexible as the board flexes?
@ShutterShock I think you said 4 is better earlier?
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I don’t know what I said before, but given the flex of the haero, I would think 8 would be better to allow it to flex more, no?
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I see your point. I’m seeing some of the enclosures that poeple have made for the haero and they aren’t that many pieces so they don’t look too flexible so I’m thinking if those are okay then mine should be too?