Try this one
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need those 25 extra V.
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I don’t know why Trampa started this whole misleading marketing naming and all Chinese manufacturers are copying it, but the 75V VESC is a 60V (16S) controller and the 100V VESC is a 72V (20S) controller. Nobody else in the industry is doing such things.
If you want to go 24S you need a proper 84V ESC. As far as I know there is no 84V VESC yet.
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zap zap go boom boom or zoom zoom
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It can handle voltage transients up to 75V and a safe battery voltage to use is 60V.
That’s how I believe it should be interpreted
???
The monikers seem appropriate to me.
the 75V doo dads operated @ 16S is 67.2V full charged. about the same headroom as running 12S on a 60V controller, where ppl have run 13S w/ success.
the trampa 100/250 can do 22S advertised, or 92.4V, again, similar headroom, could probably run 23S if you’re feeling randy.
the 100D has a max recommended voltage of 20S. Maybe you can have a gripe with this one…
What kind of sense does it make to call a controller that can take a 100.8V fully charged 24S liion pack a 84V controller?
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No. ESC manufacturers should indeed advertise their controllers by stating the maximum nominal operating voltage and not the absolute max voltage which is misleading.
Playing with absolute components rating without at least 15v room (that is literally the minimum acceptable overhead for safe voltage rating) is same as Russian roulette. You may escape unscathed or crash ugly because your ESC goes BOOM.
The absolute maximum voltage has no place in the main advertising, it should at best be relayed to datasheet.
So a 16S / 60v ESC should not be advertised as 75v ESC ; a 20S / 75v ESC should not be advertised as 100v ESC ; 10-11S / 41v ESC (yes that’s your classic Trampa / Unity / BKB Xenith / Flipsky etc) should not be advertised as 60v ESC.
List goes on.
And fuck no you should absolutely not suggest or be proud to run Trampa ESC near their absolute maximum, that’s dangerous bullshit to advocate dude 
In no other electric discipline than esk8 that kind of shit is widely accepted as normal, when you shop an e-bike ESC you get to select from accurate nominal operating voltage advertising, not their absolute max.
Yes, that’s how it is done properly at least!
P.S. : No personal offense man, I got no beef with ya.
Also I’m not criticizing any ESC model here, I’m stating the misleading marketing bullshit which fucking endangers us people. That gets me spirited.
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Yeah, esk8 is different, I guess.
We run 12S and 13S on our 60V hardware. The actually specs are much more important to us, as we understand that a fully charged battery has more potential than a nominally charged one.
The problem comes from dumbing everything down (your version) vs accurately representing your product’s specs.
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I get your point, but your components should actually have 15v more room than your full battery voltage. So spec the ESC name accordingly and name it for full voltage eventually? Makes sense to me IMHO
I guess it started with the vesc 4.6 from 2014.
“* Voltage: 8V – 60V (Safe for 3S to 12S LiPo).”
Then came the clones with the same copied features. And there we go
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@xsynatic @longhairedboy is it possible clear off @A13XR3 and my messages and related? I realize we’re cluttering @YUTW123 topic. How about Private lounge? We can keep talking there further if there is any need.
@YUTW123 Wish ya fair sales man.
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Talking about realistic voltage recommendations in a 100V vesc based Esc thread seems pretty legit to me.
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Well still I went bit too energetic yesterday😅
To keep in topic, here’s an example to illustrate my point :
This is literally a good programmable esc for brushless motors with FOC, mobile telemetry / datalog, cruise control, etc… Most of what you expect from a vesc + accessories is already inside and reliable.
This is nothing new on e-bike scene. In fact, if it wasn’t for the fat size you could perfectly mount it on your e-boards and they’d run flawlessly powerful all day.
When you check “operating voltage”, it clearly states from 30 to 100v and you can effectively plug a fully charged 24S li ion battery to it. 100.8v operating voltage.
So instead of misleading ads based off absolute max voltage, it goes as far as cleverly advertising max power (Watt) and states in description how you can effectively use it.
Edit : You can find it by searching “100v e-bike controller” on Google btw, that’s what I did. 10 seconds find.
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You definitely interpreted it right, but this is not the way to rate or advertise an 16S ESC. You can always add the min. and max. ratings like operation voltage or 3S-16S, but it is nevertheless a 60V ESC.
It is not safe to run a “60V” VESC at 13S neither a “75V” VESC over 20S. A safe headroom of ~20% is crucial on an ESK8 for voltage peaks, especially if you use regen braking.
It is that kind of sense which the industry agreed on in a common sense to rate and advertise voltage on ESCs.
A nominal voltage is called nominal because it is the voltage you name. It doesn’t matter where in the industry you are looking at, when you see a nominal voltage of 60V that means 16S lipo/lion.
There are a couple standards as 12V (3S), 24V (6S), 36V (10S), 48V (13S), 60V (16S), 72V (20S), 84V (23S), 96V (26S), 108V (30S), 120V (33S) and all of those controllers have about 20% headroom left. Than Trampa came and made their own rules and ratings which are misleading and confusing. It also makes comparisons really difficult, if you want to compare different controllers which are not VESC based.
100% agreed.
exactly!
couldn’t agree more on that.
This is also sad, but true.
I really would like to see more accurate ratings on VESCs in the future. Like I said before you can always mention the absolute max voltage and current and add a recommended working range from min to max, but the advertised rating should be the nominal rating and not the absolute max number printed on of some electric parts on the controller.
The result could conclude in less disappointment, when you are loosing the next time, with your 6kW ESK8, in a drag race vs. a 2kW e-scooter or e-bike.
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Break this one down for me. Watts are watts…
In the end, I’m talking about real numbers and you’re talking about imaginary ones put in place by certain industries (not esk8) to make things easier for people who couldn’t be bothered by real specs.
You’re like “you can’t use a 13S pack on a 60V controller, there will be spikes and you will die” but you don’t take into consideration ANY power characteristics other than voltage.
Watch me throw a low cap, high discharge 36V lifepo4 pack on your 36V controller and spike its shit so hard it becomes sentient. Conversely, a 12S12P, 50AH p42a pack is going to hold steady voltage unless you drop it off a building.
The ESK8 industry likes to work with peak numbers like 60V/100A VESCs. If you take a generic dual VESC you obtain 60x100x2 12KW.
A generic performance scooter is rated at 2x1kW-1.2kW.
In ESK8 you use phase AMPs and peak voltages, in the rest of the industry you use nominal voltage and battery AMPs.
A 60V dual motor scooter uses in general 2x20A controllers with 45pA. A maxed out generic VESC is using 43V and about 50 battery A/100pA. 43Vx50A results in 2150W instead of 6kW. In that case the “6kW” single motor ESK8 would be slower than a dual motor escooter. Of course you can exchange the scooter with a single motor ebike and you will get the same results.
I don’t say that. I say it is good to have a safety margin of ~20% on an ESK8.
In the end I’m not here to argue. I just don’t like that VESCs advertise their ratings different than anybody else in the industry.
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I guess we’ll just disagree then.
I come from an EE background, not a drone/rc hobbyist background. I’ll stick with the specs.
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PMJI…which spikes are you referring to?
The ESC-killing voltage spikes come from the pack and wiring inductance leading up to the input of the ESC. The capacity of a pack can affect the voltage sag you would see during use but would probably have a minimum effect on the total inductance of components/wiring to the ESC.
A higher capacity wouldn’t create voltage spikes just because of that…unless you’re saying its inductance is a lot higher?
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I just mean a voltage spike, not particularly concerned about why. In this case it would be from overcharging the pack w/ regen.
IMO, spikes from pack/wiring inductance can be mitigated, but obv dumping 2000w into a full, small battery would be problematic.
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