Lsss chain drive

What you need

Sprocket adaptors

Motor sprockets

10 mm 04c 25h

Wheel sprocket

25h 29mm middle hole with 34mm 3 hole division 55t seems like a good fit

Chain links




Screws to fasten the wheel sprockets to the sprocket adaptors that came with the sprocket adaptors were too long so I ground them down, also the screws for the hyper rims were too long and had a long neck so I had to replace them

To get The motor pulleys off the motor you need those fucking weird pliers to get the circlips off and a crème brûlée torch, I then used a combination wrench to pry it off the motor shaft while heating, as soon as I felt it move I cut the torch, clean everything up and store the circlips and keyways somewhere safe

I then used locktite 243 to lock the motor sprocket to the motor shafts, just be careful to align it to the wheel sprockets so it’s as straight as possible, I found it ideal to use the keyway for the setscrews, remember to let it cure for 24h

The chain will stretch over time so I found it ideal to measure out what I needed with the adjustable belt drives fully compressed and then cut the chains, you want a tiny bit of slack in the chain at all times, it it’s stiff on you will put extra strain on the motors and if it’s too loose it can kink or skip gears

I took my chains and cleaned them with degreaser and then sprayed them down with muck off c3

And then when that was cured I put some muck off wet lube

I’ve only once had a chain get lost and I’m almost 100% sure it’s my fault, after that happened I made sure that the clip on the chain was facing towards the tire and the opening on the clip was not in the driving direction


I have had 3 set ups with #25H chains.

the parts are easy to get and for the most part it works well.

but I have lost master links probably 5 times and had chains derail another 3 times…

for me it started to feel like it was happebing too often.

with all that said, it worked well most of the time.
but if I was starting over I would consider bigger chains…

also keep an eye on you motor pulley.


I stopped using master links when I picked up this tool. Things are working fine so far.


Safety wire would be enough to fix that, right?


I was going to say, I have no experience with esk8 chains, but when I was really serious about bicycling I gave up on master links and just used a chain tool to open a link and then close it on the other end. It’s a lot stronger and more reliable.


Running 06 metric roller chain myself and have only had the master link break every year or so per chain. I always keep extras and keep using it because it’s much simpler although I have a chain breaker. And yes motor sprockets wear down but I have not noticed a change in the wheel sprocket really.

Pretty reliable for me.


Friday I gave to the priduction 5chain sets 06b. 35 t wheel with removed center material becouse of weight and hole patern for MBS hubs, pinion 9t with 2screws M5 and groove for 8mm shaft with hardened tooths. It should be done in next 2 weeks. So later I will offer it. It will be great for 140kv motors.Maybe can be interesting for You.


I’m actually surprised you managed to derail yours so often, I found chain drive to be so much more forgiving in alignment and tension than belts. To give you an idea this somehow ran just fine before I finally caught it. The left mount went super crooked for some reason but there were no symptoms when running.


i may need a set dude

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I really feel like I have a special talent for breaking stuff…

and I can’t believe you bent those mounts…

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I could not get it on the tiny link…

I did put silicone glue on the master on my more recent itteration…
maybe it helped or maybe i have been lucky .

That’s the weird thing, they’re not bent at all. The clamp doesn’t mate perfectly with the MBS profile so it looks like it dug in at a weird angle from an impact or something. I still don’t fully understand how it happened.

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Did You have gap on clamps in screw area? Or clamp was in contact between each other and in contact between trucks? It looks like case when you have from tolerance point of view max clamp and min truck. Or your clamps was not tight enought.

does not seem to be aligned at all

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oh. I bet it is the picture and and optical illusion.
wheels pulleys and motor pulleys we’re aligned
that part is easy to do with chains.
and forgiving too.


It’s probably tolerance related, the Matrix profile has little consistency and mine didn’t seem to match any of the CAD references here for some reason when I was designing aero shells for them. Hence you see the inner face having no contact whatsoever while other sides dug into the trucks and actually pushed the soft aluminum out of profile. Not a dig at Boardnamics, the mounts work quite well for the circumstances.

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