They get misaligned, chew away at wheel cores, skip when braking, and are generally just shitty all around. Unless it’s a metal pneumatic wheel with boltholes positioned in it from the factory and high tooth counts, I would stay away from bolt-on.
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Do you believe the 220s would be too wide for my build?
Yes. In fact, the 145mm would be better but it’s really difficult to fit two motors on them. The 184mm is a good compromise, easily fitting two 55mm long motors.
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I’m glad you pointed out the max motor length, I was going to order some 6368 motors.
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I made that mistake on my first build.
Being a student, and not wanting to buy replacement parts, I just put one motor on the front truck and one on the rear😅
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You could absolutely do 220’s. I’m assuming this will be a urethane build? @b264 will argue that a narrower truck doesn’t affect stability and only makes the trucks more responsive and snappy. He’s technically correct but in my experience, this also means that you’ll be more prone to losing control at speed. It’s ultimately a skill issue but I wouldn’t go less than the 184s. 220s will also be more than fine imo.
I was thinking of running the MBS all terrain thanes. So far I’ve only been able to find one motor either a 140kv or 190kv Flipsky, having the wider trucks would expand my usable motor options.
Would this work on my build or am I required to mount the motors underneath my deck?
You don’t need to run the motors in front/under the deck. Having them in the back kinda kills some of your kick rail usability however
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Those are very expensive, im pretty sure a set of BN hangers and BN M1 drives will be cheaper. Not only will it be cheaper, itll be better.
Edit, buy the following
(Hangers, gear drives)
(Adjustable baseplates, these are clones of the nice 3DS ones and i can personally vouch that theyre solid)
(Motors, these are reachers and as a result are a pretty bulletproof solution. Substitute for 6365 or 6375 if desired)
Long story short, no to BN M1.
Any reason you want to avoid them? If its to avoid the helical gear axial loading on your motors - the omnis will result in the same loading as they’re also helical cut. Fwiw, its not a big issue, you can use some green loctite or cut circlip grooves if you’re really concerned.
I’ll let you know at the end of the day if they process my refund or not.
Ahhh, yeah BN isnt the fastest on CS. One of the downsides there. If you’re not deadset on gear drives i can recommend a belt drive setup?
For sure. After trying dkp trucks for the first time last week I’ve been kind of leaning that way. I’d also enjoy black drive terrain if possible.
I would avoid DKPs to be honest. Having ridden them and previously thinking they were hot shit, a good set of TKPs will carve just as good and be WAY more stable. For reference, i have everything needed to build this setup into DKP with a billet DKP midplate, and have tried it, but I’m sticking with split angled TKP instead, so im putting my money where my mouth is. Also, DKPs raise your ride height a fair bit, which isnt great.
(Efreedom.eu billet SR TKP hangers and motor mounts. A bit expensive but damn good stuff)
My build is for long carvy chill rides, group or solo dolo. I’m not too sure about getting into a split angle situation with this build.
Split angles are v worth it, you can get more steering angle while retaining stability, also just feels better on turn in. I refuse to ride without it now haha. You can achieve it with some 3d printed wedges if you want to do it simply or on the cheap.
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Co-sign on the split angles. Every Esk8 should be running them imo.
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Bkb’s stock trucks are caliber clones with extended axles, so press fit pulleys should fit on them. Have you tried a set of pulleys that didn’t fit?