The motor/esc connector, that look like a mt60 with some kind of rubber cover. The motor side connector is way beefier than a standard mt60, wanted something that match the size for the esc side.
But nevermind, i’ll probably just 3d print something.
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MT60 fits exactly. Are you fooling with the battery connection?
I found the 4 signal pin type on AliExpress once.
Even stock connectors like to separate. They will separate.
oh i know what u mean, ya those u can’t really get them because its not a standard thing. i think glue line heatshrink is good enough
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Oh, ok, they separate even with the plastic clip ?
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Well, yeah, kinda expected that.
I usually use glue heatshrink on every connectors 
, but wanted to be able to unplug this one easily
if ur solder joint is good, then u shouldn’t have any problem pull apart the connector by grabbing all 3 phase wires at the same time. just pull straight out, not to one side
So close.
$4.78 8％ Off | 1SET 200MM 3 pin 20A male female plug connector with wire 3PIN High current flat wire aviation plug cable
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO4Hrqq
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Yes they definitely do. Use a marine grade double lined adhesive heat shrink over connection plus hot glue or your goo of choice.
Why so certain?
The stock loaded/ride unlimited setup is tight and short, with an over molded and jacketed mt60 harness to prevent abrasion/water/pinch points. It rides on smaller urethane, the phase wires have very little flex, and they are anchored to the trucks, albeit with nylon clips.
every design measure intended to prevent phase wires getting wet, cut, shorted, inadvertently getting stuck in someone asshole, constrains the wires.
This system is a TEDtalk on transmitting road chatter, flex from turns, to the mt60s which are anchored to metal trucks, vibing on urethane.
You wouldn’t use non-nyloc axle nuts, right? These Connectors never had a chance
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Btw, what do you guys use as motor amps settings for those hubs ?
Selling my hub motor kit, 4 batteries and extra sleeves. Bought a raith
Just use the amps which the motor detection spit out. Every amp more leads to problems on hub motors. They heat up a lot quicker even if you raise the amps just around a small number.
Cogging and shit ahead, too.
Look at the amps percentage wise.
Even if you raise the amps from motor detection 28 to 30 its round about almost 10% (7,14%) more amps. This tiny number of just 2 amps will heat your motors much faster than you think.
Imagine 5 amps more now.
Heads up they seem to be in stock with ‘35% discount’. Motors & sleeves
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They’re so good for a thane cruiser board. Two of them gets you going plenty fast on 12s. 4wd would rip ankles.
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4wd has got to be chattery af with only a thin layer of thane to protect
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I don’t notice that much of a difference between front and rear while riding the orange. Blue is more noticeable.
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Whats the expected top end of these at 12S, and how many phase amps can i push on them each?
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30-35mph on the top end depending on weight. Not sure how many amps people are pushing through them. I’m using their escs still for the endless mode feature.
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I think mine are 12s at 30/-20 phase amps (10/-5 battery amps per side) and they get too hot to touch the inside
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Mine are set theoretically high, but I don’t use the top end 95% of the time.
It’s 10S 60/-60A phase current, 17/-20A battery, I just like how the throttle feels with that amount of headroom and I do need it occasionally for hills and emergencies. I’m 100+kg and ride slowly, around 25km/h, they barely get warm every time I’ve checked
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