Hi ya’ll,
What lipo battery setup is the equivalent to a 10s4p Samsung 30q pack?
What I’ve read so far suggests lipo packs should be:
60C (minimum)
5000mAh (minimum)
Is there a particular brand that everyone uses (or avoids)?
Would 3 of these in series make a decent pack for an evolve at clone?
Turnigy are generally fine all lipos tend to be a bit overrated on the C values but no real standard for testing or parameters for determining that in terms of cell wear or sustained discharge etc.
Only real issue I’ve had with lipos is the multistar pack but some of that can be chalked up to pushing the cells too hard and experimental mounts for holding things on that didn’t always work out. Having more pouch area packed together in general means heat dissipation is more of a problem but the cells mentioned here look fine to me.
Samsung 30Q is rated for 15A max discharge so 4P is 60A the turnigy battery here is rated 60C and 5Ah so 300A max discharge, but again grain of salt and more overhead from max less voltage sag you’ll have under load.
In what aspects do you want it to be equivalent? Weight, watt hours, power, cost? If it’s range then you just need 10s 12 amp hour pack
I run Turnigy Graphenes, not been disappointed in their C rating. Matter of fact my problem at the moment is burning through loopkey solder joints.
Equivalent in general performance (power and range I guess). I’m looking for advice on what would be a good example of a lipo setup that would work well with two 4.12 Vesc’s and 5065 motors. Most people seem to favour 10s4p, so I used that as a comparison.
Another thing you should consider is how are you going to charge them? Wire a bms or hobby charger because that makes a big difference. If it’s a hobby charger you need to be able to charge them and if you use a bunch of 2s lipos then charging them each individually will be a pain. If you did 2 5s lipos however you might run into the problem of the lipos being really thick and having a hard time finding an enclosure or ground clearance.
@Jacobee If I remember correctly I think my bigben enclosure height is roughly 4cm, and with the evolve AT wheels I get good ground clearance. The enclosure should work with most lipos under 3s. Initially i am planning to charge them with a hobby charger. If this gets tedious then I’d look into getting a BMS.
@malJohann how many 2s2p lipos would be needed, and are they connected in series just like a 1p lipo? If 5 were to be connected in series would it make a 10s10p pack?
Series means the “s” is multiplied. Parallel multiples the “p”. 5 of the 2s2p in series is 10s2p
5 in series makes 10s2p.
LiPos have good output, but are heavy and bulky, that’s the price you pay for the performance.
Imo lipos are only good for smaller packs that are like 8 amp hours and under because a lithium ion pack that small would sag hard, anything above that and you might as well go with lithium ion
@Jacobee What lipo setup would you recommend for a 8 or 12 amp hour pack?
A bit of history behind this build. I initially had a pre built 8s4p 25r li-ion pack which I ran a couple of times on a single 6374 motor and 97mm wheels. I then accidentally fried the battery when installing a second motor (I was in a rush coming off a night shift and solder the second Vesc’s xt connector incorrectly). I was given another prebuilt 10s3p pack for free however based on battery spec I have been informed that it’s not really suitable for esk8. So now I’m contemplating building my own lipo pack as I am comfortable with soldering and already have a lot of the materials needed. However my knowledge and experience with lipo is limited.
Probably 2 of these in series for a 10s pack. Simple only 2 batteries to charge decent range plenty of power but it only has 296 watt hours vs the 432 of a 10s4p. Also the batteries are 39mm thick so make sure your enclosure fits them.
I have 8 of the heavy duty packs in the 6s version and they did perform very well. They not as good as the graphens, but for the price it’s definitely not bad.
Thanks. I’d read on the builders forum that lipos should be above 60c otherwise it may affect acceleration/breaks. Is this not the case in your experience?
C rating is really inconsistent across all lipos. My uncle has a setup of those exact lipos in his board (they’re the blue ones but those are discontinued and these have the fact same specs and same manufacturer) we run them at 60 battery amps total and haven’t had any problems. If we look at theoretical discharge 8 * 30= 240 we know the battery can’t really do that. However half of that 120 or lower battery amps should be fine unless you want a really high discharge pack for racing or off-roading
C rating only has meaning when paired with capacity so a 1Ah 60C battery can in theory max at 60A if it were 2Ah would be 120A max so you can’t use the rating itself in isolation without knowing capacity it’s meaningless also as mentioned it varies a lot mfg to mfg no standard test.
On a single drive I just have 30C 5Ah 10S but being light weight and on flat land mostly I only draw 10A-20A at peak and can easily get 20mph so it’s not really a problem for me (I don’t drag race I use it for commuting around town).
Can see some data with my battery very near dead here:
Almost dead in 2 miles!?! That is what kills it for me using lipos
…from 37.2V to 36.3V in 3.4km… @Bobby
Things would look different if the battery would have been charged for the log… just sayin 