Will heed that advice — I’ve heard it now from a few people. (Unless suggested otherwise for pouches)
If I get 10 new cells of the same specs for a new battery pack, can that work?
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Don’t see why not.
Is it correct to look for a 60A BMS for the 10s pack then? Reason I ask is because I see there are far less 60A units on Aliexpress…
That particular pouch cell looks like it had a protection circuit built in.
You want unprotected cells since the BMS is doing the protection in this use case.
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Thanks @Helno I can remove the built in PCB protection board? I see the tabs on the pouch behind the board.
Why do that when you can buy cells without them?
This is a better idea than trying to mix the old unknown age ones with new ones, sometimes the old one lose capacity and discharge rate over time and they would be working harder than the new ones, causing the pack to go out of balance.
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I’ve never tried it, but this sounds dangerous af.
Update:
I found another cell that’s starting to show signs of puffing and removed it. 
Completed the 7s pack with the original 10S BMS and it’s reading 28v.
Q: What do I do with the 3 extra balance leads (8, 9, 10)?
Q: Can I put this back on the board and connect it up?
Update:
Plugged the 7s pack into the board and tried the original 42v 2a charger. The board turns on, remote seems to be connected (as it’s showing odometer and connected to ESC status) — battery shows zero for being drained while sitting out. The 42a charging indicator light goes red for about 3min and then shuts off.
Questions:
Now I’m trying to figure what to do next…
New power charger that is 29.4 2a to match the 7s pack?
New 7S BMS? If so, do I get 50A or 60A version?
What does the C rating impact on the performance?
At this stage 3 cells are bad, I think it’s better to trash the pack and buy or build a new battery.