That’s sadly their modus operandi (and kind of the AliExpress shipping model for some big shippments)
I think they don’t have much stock. So they send once they’ve produced. In the meantime they provide random numbers. If you spam them enough they’ll send you a viable tracking number. (Which at that point means they have paid for shipping and now have an actual tracking number and the shipping sticker).
And the funniest part is to come. Usually ups take care of the package once it as reached the destination continent. (So once out of the cargo ship, or plane). In the meantime you’ve got an uncertain time where your package could be traveling already, or not at all.
You’ll probably get your stuff at some point. Keep and eye out and bugging them from time to time, to be able to fill a claim with AliExpress if this get out of hand. And maybe speed things up a little
As far as most people have been able to tell different voltages are the same motor. The only difference is 600w or 800w versions. My brother and I got different voltages versions in 800w and the kv tested the same.
Could you specify “different voltages” version?
I thought about running the Phub 188 48V 800W with 60V.
I did not get any information from PeiScooter if the 48V version can withstand 60V.
Still hope to get some data if the 48V & 60V has the same kv rating and wiring.
I think what he means is that on a one wheel, battery space I quite limited. So you’ll be hard pressed to manage a pack that supplies 60v in such a little space.
I think most people have managed 12s1p, some up to 12s2p. So 48v if I didn’t miss something crucial
Yeah I tried to get detail from Pei as well and that didn’t work. I’m sure either motor could handle 60V or more. Heat and current is the enemy of the motor, not voltage. Usually the differences in voltage mean a different KV (number of turns) and maybe wiresize. On the Pei that doesn’t appear to be the case, at least in the motors I’ve tested.
What unloaded max RPM can you reach at what voltage? That will tell the KV.
I ended up cancelling my phub order from aliexpress after 2 months of being strung along with fake tracking numbers. I ordered from @Fungineers and he delivered it in around 2 weeks so I definitely recommend ordering from him if you still don’t have your wheel!
Battery is split 10p in the back 12p and bms in the front, balance leads and power leads through the rails.
If I had to do it over I would put the bms in the back so I only have to run 2 balance leads through the rails. There’s plenty of room on the bumper for it I’m sure I could make it work.
I had to open a claim with paypal. Once that started they shipped. I had to continue to pester them to get it resolved. First it was the shipping label printed/shipping information received. Then I escalated to paypal after a week of no progress and one was shipped immediately.
@Enginir Did you ever try to get more aggressive settings than the ones you posted in your build video? I’m trying to get mine out of beginner mode and trying to figure out where to start tuning.
This is a question for anyone. I got the files to 3d print everything that connects to the frame. It looks pretty good. I ordered and paid for a fungineers vesc but it is still back ordered so got a balance pro. My question is what is the vest “your opinion” of structure for between the frame rails and what to print in. I bought .23 or .3 sheet metal to protect the bottom as skid plates and to protect the battery. It isn’t too heavy but will hopefully protect the components as I have bad luck. I am running a 12s2p battery with Tesla cells. I have the funginneers rails just wondered if there was a set of sty’s out there that “work the best” or super customizable.
hey I haven’t seen that adapter to fit a 6” tire on the phablet-188. Also I got two of the float store batteries but no charger. Any idea how to charge the thing? Know all about lipos but I am nor 100% sure on these. I assume short the bus and hook up the xt60 but the video shows an adapter that you add but there is no place for the adapter. ,
