So in the spirit of burying myself more into a hobby I got this bike too. After the razor build its pretty underwheling looks like i’ll build a 20s2p for inside the frame and use another kelly 7218s since there is just enough room in there. I’m open to suggestions for controllers but 72v seems like the way to go for me. It came with the rear “g-rack” I could load up with a bunch of cells but I took it off since this looks cooler.
I was going to suggest the raiden zesc 7 but the max rating is 18s and you’d have less options for add-ons like lights screens and such
The screens mostly are a result of hall sensor input for speed. The canbus ones need pretty expensive controllers or stuff paired pretty specifically with it. There’s the cheapo ebike controllers paired with a screen but that’s kind of already in there. So the raiden would support almost any screen just probably not the canbus ones.
The raiden could work but the battery enclosure is perfectly suited for a 20S. The ‘difficult build’ for my case is 50 cells which wont be good for 18S3p. The dimensions are really nice for the raiden, but I was hoping not to put my bms on that side.
Regarding lights, they just need a control switch and a dc dc converter if the controller doesn’t have 12v output. What is kind of nice is having the key switch on/off so I can yank the keys and people can’t ride it easily. Not sure if the raiden would support that? 18S isn’t a huge loss. I did order another kelly rofl, I’m kind of wondering about that raiden though especially if I could run flux weakening.
You could use a key switch it still act as an on/off switch. You could also have both a key switch and the button that comes with the raiden
For a screen you could still use a davega
Battery would be made with 18650 or 21700?
Will be using 21700 and a davega does sound like a good idea. Wouldn’t mind going back to vesc software, kelly software leaves a bit to be desired lol. They sell you a bt module with it that can’t actually program everything so you need to order the hidden serial adapter ugh.
thats some basic marketing for ya xD
you could also go with the 84v FOCer if you really really really want the 20s2p lol
This wasn’t so much an install as it was a stuff and jam it in job. Still need to cut off a bunch of the old battery bracket to get it to close. Some of the original battery bracket needs to be retained to keep the locking mechanism, which also turned out to be an unused electrical ignition so I used that as power on. Got my motor detection run and throttle is working so just need to pack it up. Then inevitably decide the battery is shit and rebuild that too.
Bought some motorbike rims to hopefully convert to bike rims. It will greatly expand my tire options and not having to buy these terrible ones again will be nice; just noisy and inefficient. Not sure I’ll pull it off but we will see. Also after some test rides the bike is amazing but battery bms thermistor keeps shutting it off lol.
Also here is the dremeled battery casing, like a glove now
wait that’s a folding bike ??
Yes and it’s amazing for hopping over jumps the weight is still perfect. Adding any external batteries will probably ruin this for jumping.
Soo anyone ever heard of an ebike hub slipping when you jump too much?
It went away after a couple seconds, I jumped on it hard again on purpose and it started slipping again. Now its fine not happening with some jumping so I might take it a bit easier on it.
This was intense, battery building aint easy. Had a couple small accidents, but luckily the high current just melts wires quickly…I took a small ride and it’s awesome. More battery sag than the 6p obviously but so nice to have it all in the frame. Right now set at 50% power so around 2800w feels great. Waiting on heatshrink for the battery now.
gave it the beans, absolutely crazy of course with bms bypassed. I did sag the battery from 78v to 62.5 on hard acceleration. It did bounce back really fast to 78 ish again. I’m not super happy about my connection tabs, wondering if they are good for 50A let alone 80a pretty much throughout the battery. I did want to use the diagonal ladder style nickle but it ends up so small on the connection points idk. Also the soldered points are kind of meh. I cleaned them up since this photo but wondering if I should have just spot welded those too.
This was a lot of rewiring work. I had to order a pack of JST sm connectors, repin even the stock connectors for the cycle analyst v3. I couldn’t get a 6 pin plug easily in a kit so I split it to 4 and 2. The pedal assist took some work to figure out. Ultimately needs 5v which in my case it converts from 10v. I still rewired it to 5v internally. The RPM wire threw me off which is yellow but I went blue to blue. Also wired the shunt in so I have voltage and wattage readout. Very happy now that all the functions are back and better than the stock computer. I’ll post another photo of the wiring mess inside, needs some work still
The new plugs take less space right? It had to br tight before right?