Lamboardhini | Hummie | 10S1P | 149KV | Boa 100

[b264]

@Fatglottis

@rosco

suggest skinning the deck

I bought a sheet of CF and the idea was to skin after the routing but the deck felt like a rock so I didn’t do it. I might reconsider though. If skinned, I suppose the layer should be put on bottom side for the better effect?

I would use glass fiber instead of carbon or aramid or TP fibers.

[Fatglottis]

@linsus

Swap to a 12 AWG and u could increase that current alot more if thats your ambition

True! But it’s perfectly fine as it is now The charger can’t handle more and the BMS has a limit of 15A charging current i think.

@linsus

I have 12S8P(samsung 48X)

That’s a lot of P… you better use thane then… would hurt to dump that energy into heat no?

@b264

I would use glass fiber instead

Because more flexible and easier to handle… ?

[Pedrodemio]

@Fatglottis

I only routed the part necessary for the battery to keep the deck integrity as much as possible. A shout out to @Pedrodemio whos build thread at builders was very inspiring (actually he told me not to go on with this ). How is your deck holding up btw?

Nice to see another low one, despite all the QC and manufacturing defects that you might encounter, this deck is still the best one I’ve set foot on so far

I have been just ignoring the cracks, but it still going and haven’t broke and throw me off, thought it’s was worryingly flexy when my dad which is a bit heavier than me went to ride it, to the point I’m not letting him ride that board anymore

If by any reason I have it open, which is not frequent and I only do that when I need to use it’s StormCore to test motors, I always put a few drops of superglue in all the cracks as a good measure

[b264]

@Fatglottis

@b264

I would use glass fiber instead

Because more flexible and easier to handle… ?

More flexible, suits a longboard better IMHO but also the other big thing is that it’s transparent to radio. RF on which your life depends.

[Darkstar826]

Your build is nice. The only thing i will throw away is the motor mounts. I had bad luck with them. If you are a heavy user or you have torquey motors. They will not stay in place. Even if you tighten the motor mounts super hard. All i have to say…I busted my butt twice.lol Broke my board(day one) and damage my left forearm(day two). Just be careful my dude.

[Fatglottis]

@Pedrodemio

but it still going and haven’t broke and throw me off, thought it’s was worryingly flexy when my dad which is a bit heavier than me went to ride it, to the point I’m not letting him ride that board anymore

Ok that is reassuring to hear​:slightly_smiling_face: …and put your dad on a diet and let him enjoy that beauty

[rosco]

Skin the underside, top won’t do anything. If you go around and not through the cutout it’s pretty tidy and low chance of signal blocking issues (one of mine below)

[Fatglottis]

Ah yea this is what I had in mind

[Fatglottis]

@Darkstar826

They will not stay in place. Even if you tighten the motor mounts super hard

Yep I noticed! But I solved that riddle and mine are not going anywhere anymore. It’s in the first post

[b264]

@rosco

If you go around and not through the cutout it’s pretty tidy and low chance of signal blocking issues (one of mine below)

I agree with this

@rosco

Skin the underside, top won’t do anything.

But not this. This is indeed the case for this deck above, and any of the very, very common scenarios when your feet are between the wheels.

But often in my case the wheels are between my feet, which means you should skin the top instead because the deck is flexing upward, not downward

[Plurf]

@Fatglottis

Battery: 10S1P 25Ah NMC pouch

any specs on those ? where di you get them from ?

[linsus]

@Fatglottis

That’s a lot of P… you better use thane then… would hurt to dump that energy into heat no?

well, I went big due to the energy economy of pneus, and I didn’t pay for a single cell so why not

[Fatglottis]

@linsus

didn’t pay for a single cell

Funny… that’s how I roll also

[linsus]

job perks I guess

[rusins]

Amazing build and thread! Loved reading it!

This build really highlights how you can make cheap parts work reliably if you put the effort into fixing them.

What current draw can those cells do btw?

[Fatglottis]

Thanks man… very appreciated! It took some time to put the thread together. Many many pictures had to be left out or it would never end

Indeed one can make something nice for little money if you are dedicated and don’t stress to much.

The cells should keep up pushing 200A for a couple of seconds

[SlickdogEsk8]

Awesome Build , I have a unity that the anti spark when on. Is there any chance you could talk me through your bypassing of the anti spark. It is a skill i would like Thanks

[Fatglottis]

Sure here are the steps

First remove the heatsinks… then,

1. Remove plastic connectors or shield them off. It’s easy to burn them otherwise. Try also shielding the capacitors… the cover on them tend to crack easily.

Use hot air station

2. Remove broken gate driver IC.
   Remove four gate resistors.
   Crank the heat up and remove the four Antispark FETs. This can be tough since the heat is just sucked away into the PCB.

3. Bridge the FET pads with conducting material. I use a piece of copper busbar. Others have made simple solder bridges (not sure if that is a good idea). Perhaps nickel will do fine?

4. Good flux and solder are your friends.

5. Check that other components have not moved.

6. Check no shorts

[SlickdogEsk8]

Legend Thank you Have a Awesome weekend

[Fatglottis]

Small update, did the bike tire mod on the boa wheels as well. Same as the Rat. I know it’s nuts, don’t tell me.

-Sketchy at high speeds.
-Comfortable rolling on winter gravelled swedish bike lanes.
-battery consumption took a hit as expected.
-I wanted smooth tires (not off-road). Hence they were really thin. Probably won’t last long.

I do this so you others don’t have to