We’re about to have the first units ready (prototypes) in maybe 4 weeks 
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I just got a kweld and I am planning on setting it up with a car battery.
I was wondering if I will need to buy anything other than these Battery Terminals from Amazon to put on this 850 CCA 12 V car battery from Walmart. I have read some recommend 700 CCA from autozone.
Will I need some more 8 or 12 AWG wire and XT150 females to connect the cables to the battery to remain under inductance max and 2000 Amp?
Will the kweld calibration lower the needed voltage of the battery to stay below safe levels?
Or would I need to drain the battery voltage myself?
Thanks
The unit comes with 2x 20cm wire for the battery side. If you mount the welder on top of the battery, then the PB battery terminals should be all you need.
kWeld is basically a strong switch, it does nothing with the voltage. These batteries usually don’t get close to the 2000 amps limit, and if so then the welder will abort the pulse to protect itself. This protection only fails for very excessive power sources, like in the 5000A range.
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Thank you for the clear answer. I ordered 8 AWG BAttery terminals for car Battery terminals to connect to the provided wires
Hi, just bought kWeld + kCap and plan to use it with the adjustable charger (0-50A, 0-60V). What is the best setting for the power source to get best results?
Something like 9V and 50A ?
Also, is using a 2S8P (21700 M50L) battery a possible solution for powering the kCap+kWeld combo when not near an electrical outlet?
9V/50A would be perfect, but it needs to be a current regulated source (the empty ultracapacitors represent a dead short and excessive inrush current will damage the input protection switch). What specific model do you have in mind? A battery is not possible for the same reason.
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Thanks for the reply. I got a CCCV charger that I can set 0-60V and 0-50A. So that should be fine.
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I love my k-weld and have been using a couple lipos to power it, but I have a 5s5p molicel p42 pack I use for various things, sons power wheels and powering Milwaukee power tools. So is this pack suitable? 18V/21ah and can provide 225A continuous.
Wouldn’t recommend it personally, lipos are better for the insanely high current it draws (albeit for very small portions of a second)
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it won’t be happy if you try 
welding takes >1000A bursts iirc
lipos get pretty warm, so i’d imagine your pack would getpretty toasters pretty quick
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5S is too much voltage I think
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Thank you for the responses! Looks like I’ll be sticking with the lipos.
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Nano tech lipos are out of stock at this point.
Is the Graphene line ok, or are they substantially inferior to the Nano tech product?
Edit: for reference, the nano tech recommendation is the 3S/5000mAh/130C battery.
I’m using two 4ah 3s turnigy “heavy duty” in parallel and it runs fantastic. Pretty cost effective too
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CNHL is great for LiPos. I use their smaller packs for racing drones you wouldn’t believe the abuse they take.
There is one option. It’s a 6S pack so you would have to take off the outer wrap and make it 3S2P which would be 2000 amp continuous 4000 burst (15sec) but as the C rate increases so does the exaggeration you should expect.
CNHL Racing Series 10000mAh 22.2V 6S 100C Lipo Battery with QS8 Plug — ChinaHobbyLine
And a 3S pack.
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I use the graphene ones only, and they’re great
only one per welder too, lasts a decent bit of time just needs a fan on it
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+1 for single graphene.
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Is there a solution to why the plus tip welds worse than the minus? I have checked the circuit board, sanded to the tips. Tried changing hands if I press different hard. Tried welding 1 minus 2 plus. Nothing helps.
I’ve found that upgrading to 6AWG wires with the same length helped significantly. I first noticed the issue when switching from lipos to KCap.
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