Crap. Keep forgetting to buy the USB module
It does amazing.welds still. Just freaks out sometimes
Where do I buy the programming cable. I want to get more data from the welds on a screen for the fun of it. Kweld USA doesn’t have and they claim it’s firmware only
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I’ll be home in 3 hours and I’ll pull it apart and start checking values for you
Also would love to talk about double k cap setups. One K-Cup doesn’t seem to be enough so we always by 2 / welder
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I have mine in parralel and they work great just takes ages for them go empty
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6 hours with a fan on. I hook up a carbon stack resistor and pull more. It’s funny how much per is left after you turn off
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I’m using a 4s lipo on this kweld.
It goes from 10v to 3.3 randomly, or when I turn on auto welding mode
Also. The protection devices. Can’t find online on digikey or anywhere. Keith at kweld USA had a few I begged off of him and I reworked them on. ( I bridged a 5s (20volts through the leads. My fault)
Do you have a part number and replacement option?
Also. I would like to get live data via serial on a larger screen and other info if available . I read we can hook up our computer to this and get more data
I weld .2mm nickel at a rate of 45-70 welds a minute with a 2 kcap setup and other then the wires getting hot, this machine is amazing. ( I have 2 sets of electrodes and wires and fans on the wires so they cool down . The electrodes not in use are in ice water cooling off while the others are heating up from constant welds.
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Keith in the US has them, I have just sent him a message because he is probably not aware of this “undocumented feature” (my fault in that case).
If you weld 0.3mm nickel then that’s true. Single kCap supports 0.2mm max.
A trick helps: directly short the probes and fire a few pulses, this will quickly drain them down to < 4V.
I see. Looks like something is pulling down the 10V supply randomly. Can you spot a component that is getting hot in this condition? Does the LCD still stay on?
The small TVS diodes are Littelfuse SMDJ28A, the big ones are Littelfuse SLD8S28A.
Yes, same process as described in the firmware update section, but just stop after having made connection via ExtraPutty.
What I do is have a bowl of water on the bench (with safety distance to the delicate stuff) and periodically dip the tips for cooling, then wipe dry. This avoids having to swap them.
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Thanks for all the replies.
I found that one k cap is not sufficient for .2
3s3p would prob work on the super caps.
As for the component that is getting hot,. I’ll pull out a flir gun and check. Lcd does stay on.
We’re good here. Thanks for making the best welder out there. My only wish is to give a pre pulse like the maltronics, and a Bluetooth phone app. Just for fun love stats
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That’s testing good here, do you remember how much current you got with 1 kCap?
kWeld’s energy metering approach doesn’t need softening pulses, I had made tests with different number of pre pulses in the past when I was investigating methods to prevent arcing. I couldn’t spot an advantage, and the extra stress to the power switch doesn’t justify doing it ‘just because’. Do you have any signs of irregularity where this could be an advantage?
I have all technology pieces for this here at my desk, all the way down to flash update over air, the only missing puzzle piece is time…
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Enough for me to say this sucks, and I’m doubling up immediately.
I found a guy selling what you should. Take notice 
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Where can i buy these? Lol
Also is there any cooling upgrades for kweld?
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I don’t share this opinion. My approach always is performance/cost optimization, and the 3S2P configuration showed to deliver enough current for most tasks. This 5S3P pack would have to retail at > 200€, which is out of reach for most hobbyists. Power users can still put 2 kCap in parallel. Would be nice if you could share the reason why you have your opinion, your previous answer didn’t tell me much.
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The main module doesn’t need to my experience (has anyone different results?), and the probes would need water cooling to improve them further. I could develop something, but there’s one component missing here which is time 
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The fuse gets really hot over time, so do the bus bar next to it, so I was thinking about upgrading the busbars to pure copper, what is the material used now, looks like messing or something simmilar?
Probably just a pc fan on top would help a lot
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Mine also gets pretty warm so I just drilled vent holes in my kweld case 
Mine gets too hot to touch without the case lol
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I guess I need to start welding larger batteries lol. I built this fan thing. Just the right amount of jank for me
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Forgive me, but I thought I did.
My welds were not good enough on .2mm. So I put a second in parallel, and it worked perfectly.
I am using 99.6 pure nickel, your factory leads.
Not trying to bash you. But if you sell a kcap setup that requires a long on time with the fets,. Your leads will heat up and no penetration.
One k cap is a waste of money and that’s the truth if your doing .2mm
8.1 volts, and I’m not a noob.
2 k caps is amazing and works perfectly.
.2 is a stretch. That’s all I’m saying
Just wire a fan. Super easy
My battery gets too hot without having a fan on it lmao
The probes too, they get quite hot - I could see watercooling helping with that part at least