Personally don’t like runing any thing that close to the limits.
wouldn’t run a car on the red line all the time and expect it to last
Personally don’t like runing any thing that close to the limits.
wouldn’t run a car on the red line all the time and expect it to last
Bless you sir! Quick buy them all
edit* it has been done
When welding nickle strips together, not on/to cells, what material do you use under the nickle strips? Are there metals which are particularly difficult to weld suitable for a base? Something low resistance like copper that won’t build as much heat? Non-conductive like a ceramic plate?
Someone mentioned aluminum didn’t work well because it either sucked too much heat or current. One person uses ceramic dinner plates allegedly. Perhaps a plate of glass maybe?
No not glass it pits and shoots little bits of glass out.
Aluminium works really well but you need to bump up your settings to accomodate the heat that it sinks.
I used cheap dinner plates, they also pitted, but not as bad as the glass.
Ceramic tiles are next on my list of things to try
Oh. It was all the same guy ^
Ideally you want the current to travel throu the 2 strips eg
Probe, Strip, Strip, Probe
This is not possible with battery’s as you can’t get to the back of the contact pleasing both probes on the surface blasting it with many extra amps trying to compensate for the large amount so curent teavaling down the top strip not welding the strips together hoping the path of least resistance is throu the strip, in to the battery contact, back out thro the strip, to the other probe.
Wouldn’t you want 1 probe attached to some kined of conductive base material and 1 probe in your hand to select were the weld is.
Surly 2 strips on a insulated surface of ceramic or glass won’t give enough constant encurgment of the current path for a reliable weld. (Be aware both ceramic and glass materials often exploded on thermal shock welding is instantly superheating and cooking creating a very localised thermal shock)
Welds work fine dude. I do bump up the joules a little bit, but the only issue I have is the occasional blow through the nickel, maybe 1 in 50 welds.
Good pressure, correct angle of tips, and probes as close as possible welds nickel to nickel no dramas… you can even do it on wood/mdf but it gets a bit smoky
Spot welders look like this for a reasions if you mounted the probes in some thing like a clamp eg
I exspect better constant cleaner results much lower settings
Only as a idea I don’t weld strips together I have only layered them in battry cells so fare
My next battery has quite a few n2n welds. I will experiment and report back.
Dont use older aluminium.
???
You can’t weld a alu piece with a thicker passivation layer.
You can weld it just fine.
Just use some sandpaper to remove the oxide, clean with acetone and increase your positive time a little bit.
Wtf makes you think i’m trying to spot weld aluminium!?
Thought so.
I have tried soldering to it before… that’s no fun.
I want to start spotwelding, but China bugs me…