At most, I will probably just adjust the linkage hole location, which only requires removing the two bolts/locknuts on the front.
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So, lemme tell you a story of why skinning CF is hella hard. Unlike fiberglass, once its on, its on. No shifting. If you do shift it, the weave goes haywire.
I brushed epoxy with black pigment.
Then on goes the CF. i bought a nice black and green one.
Oh… oh well. I ripped it off before it fully cured and sanded it back down to bare wood.
Instead i might consider the ‘forged CF’ look. Its a bit more forgiving and easier to execute.
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So i scrapped the forged CF idea. I thought long about it and since the lid is aluminum, making the underside of the deck CF could make my remote connection not reliable. So im just gonna go for a layer of fiberglass, then sand and paint.
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Fibreglass is sanded smooth and flat, and epoxy primer is sprayed
The next day, surface was sanded with 400 grit.
Then, i bedlinered the bottom and sides. Ill make the bedliner surface more on the smooth side, where ill lightly sand it the next day.
Paint goes on tomorrow. Im gonna try two greens in a gradient.
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Riser time, did some stuff.
The big holes on the riser will be for the phase wires, and charge port/power button. The model below is a bashguard which i will screw into the tail, so this part gets banged up instead of the deck.
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Why not go for a 10s3p?
10s3p will be roughly 8.5 kilos or more, im going for portability and given my ride style i dont use that much juice. Id be happy if this can do 25km range.
Battery pack is done. I did all the balance wiring and all on the sides. Well insulated with fishpaper as well so no issues there. Reason for that is the deck cavity is exactly 22mm. I cannot have any wires on top or they risk pinching.
Gonna work on the wiring of the ESC and phase wires next week.
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Gotta be honest, the phase wires to the MT60 connector are so stiff… i cut it off close to the end and soldered 14 AWG silicone wire.
Then, routed it into the riser that i did with a 9mm hole. LOOK AT IT AAAAA
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Everything is padded with EVA foam and nothing moves now. Just gotta silicone the button, charge port, and the phase wire areas and we are done.
Since this motor has no sensors. I did the generic sensorless FOC via the wizard. I have not tried the other sensorless smooth starts yet. I did fiddle with HFI a few years ago on another board, and what is this thing about VSS? Are there new motor modes that ive yet to know about? Which is better?
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I hear the new(ish) “silent” HFI is all the rage right now.
There’s a lot of good info in the testing thread that @Shadowfax made here:
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That’s how I have my current omakase on loaded hubs set up right now (regular sensorless). Will be curious to see if you find a better solution.
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I’m working on a built on board as well and I’m wondering how you approached your phase wires did you have to make new ones if so what’s your measuring process
Your board looks fantastic 3 links on such a deck seems overkill but I like it. It’s clean hubs are great and it looks good hoping it will ride very well as well
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Wire length wise, i estimate how long it would be, and add like 7cm more to that. doesn’t hurt to cut it longer.
I’ve been running HFI on my loaded hubs with 12s and they still need a bit of a kick but once your going 0.5mph they take off
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How is it compared to run of the mill sensorless?
I don’t believe the loaded hubs work very well with (s)HFI, the difference between phase inductance at two different points in its rotation (Ld - Lq) is too low to get good data for HFI. I won’t pretend to fully understand why, but I think it’s because of the high pole count and low RPM. As I understand it the high frequency pulses are used to excite the coils, and based on how they react the system can approximate their inductance. When different physical positions of the rotor give you a clear difference in inductance, you can use the reaction to HFI pulses to work out the position
Not that it can’t work, but as Zach said you need to kick it off. HFI on my 6354s is pretty flawless, I forget I don’t have sensors connected
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