It's time for schleepy rides

Hello, I’m back and around August 4th I joined the community. Here we are now September 15th and I’ve finished my board.

Before the 4th, I knew nothing about electric skateboarding of that sort but the idea struck me when I thought about getting around campus as I transfer to a new and larger university. Well, I hopped on here read a number of posts and watched some youtube videos. Needless to say I was at awe with all the work people have done and it was even more amazing to see the community built around it.

Anyways, this isn’t the most glam board but it’s something that will get me around. At the end of this I will provide some shout outs to a few fellow who have been very cool.

You already know… fish paper is a must right? Battery building first!

prepping copper for nickel plate on a Tesla of course…also it was sharp :frowning:

worked on this with my friend and some juice for plates.

bam got it going now for some folding… I know it’s a bit crude.

spot welding time you already know.

aye? I give it a solid 6/10 for first time.
BMS time!

bam. bat.

fast forward…making holes for charging and switch, I put everything in.

switching the little inserts for the motor.

I used some german tech to connect my wires rather than solder.

well…I ended up making a loop key for my thing instead…

here’s the finaly board, will explain about tape.

Not sure if this video will work but here’s my friend testing it out for the first time. I was a bit too scared to ride so I let him test it first…we got around 18mph before we chickened out but my goal was 10-15mph since I don’t think I’ll need to go too fast unless I want some occasional fun (which I most likely will).

Overall, I spent roughly 20 hours on it and I have a few tweaks to do…and I spent roughly 800 bucks…though I do have to return a few items.

The antispark switch was faulty unfortunately…I wish I could’ve gotten a refund but I said screw it and salvaged parts for usage which explains the loop key. The scotch tape is taping down an on/off switch I plan on attaching for the smart BMS and a hole in the TB enclosure. I’m waiting on 3D print to fill it in.

Honorable Mentions:
@YeetMeat Hey man, I hope to see you return back to this space! Thanks for helping out, being informative, and nice despite me not buying your enclosure. People go buy him out!

@bearlyrecognized Nick, the man! I appreciate you so so much. You’ve been so kind with your long paragraph worths of explanations, I appreciate the time you’ve taken out to check on my updates and giving me advice or suggestions. Unfortunately…while testing the hall sensors got caught somehow and tore out of the motor so… I’m hall-less! It still functions pretty fine I just gotta give it a little kick start for a smooth ride. Also go buy out Nick!

@KaramQ Karam, I hope to you see at school one day if you decide to go. I’m going to become an SD man just like you. I appreciate your communicative efforts during your difficult weeks and getting those wheels over. You’ve helped a lot with any random questions I’ve had and I hope that next project you got going goes swimmingly. Send some pictures! Go buy Karam out too >:T

@frame cool man. That’s all I gotta say. Go buy him out. Appreciate you too, the helmet is awesome and this vesc is just perfect.

@Jansen Hey man, thanks for meeting up with me and sharing some of your stuff. You’ve been cool though I do find the ghosting a bit uncool after asking about the switch…that’s okay though. Some response would’ve been greatly apprecaited!

Thanks to everyone else for being for the most part, welcoming. All those suggestions in my first post is greatly apprecaited.

This has been quite a fun build and I’m hoping to do some changes when I accumulate some more money. This is a very fine board to me for a single motor but maybe I’ll do a dual and I might tone down on the kv. Who knows…and I’m probably going to have a paint job done on it sometime soon eventually, so maybe a new post or a little update eventually.

For now, this is the board and maybe this will be a little dump for me to come back to once in a while to post pictures. Thanks for your time in reading this if you’ve made it thus far. :handshake:

(side note…does anyone think I can use the salvaged button from the flispky anti-spark to hook into my BMS as an on/off switch? The flipsky has a black, white, red wire… I’m not sure what white means I think neutral I’m not sure, but red and black I have on the BMS)


If the switch is latching, you should be able to use it for the bms.

There’s a bunch of threads/arguments scattered around the forum as to why it’s a bad idea to run your discharge through the bms on an esk8, so i’d suggest taking a look at some of those before deciding if that’s really what you want to do.


I’ll definitely take a look. I was just a bit confused because the page where I bought the BMS from didn’t have much info on the switch other than “if I need to use it” I did bypass and I was just wondering if I could just eh forget it and short it then get straight to charging but I am reading some stuff atm. Thanks!!

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The bms doesn’t need to be switched on or off to charge, just plug it in to a charger and it’s good to go.

You can turn off the charge circuit within the app for the bms, but the hardware switch only controls the discharge circuit

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Okay that makes my life so much easier, thank you man!

that battery looks pretty uhhhhhhh

iffy but here’s pointers

0: looks like your fishpaper rings were meant for 18650 instead of 21700, you might want to use the right size for the right cell

1: the battery tabs don’t need to be the exact same size as tge cell, you only really need 10-12mm width, tho more nickel isn’t bad. but you don’t want to risk those edges from rubbing through your kapton and shorting eachother

2: it’s easier and better to weld 1 tab at a time if you’re doing double layers. the welder will only need yo he set to around 35-50J (milage varies depending on your setup) instead of the 94 you have it at rn (6-8 dots per cell is also better, tho that’s not as much a requirement)
welding tab to tab you can up the J a tad to ensure it’s good, but don’t go crazy. offset the location of the welds as well to prevent the nickel-cell welds from disconnecting.
always have a sacrificial cell to make sure your settings are good, pulling the tab off the cell. it should leave some holes and there should be leftover nickel on the cells. they should also look like they have a slight ring around it, but it should not be so hot or you could risk blowing a hole on the tab or worse, the cell.

4: cable management is key with the balance lead, you want basically no overlap of the wires.if you do, have insulation between then to prevent shorts.

in short: batteries are dangerous, you gotta put love and care into every one or you risk fire, injuries, loss of property, and or death


Yea… I will admit that it is very questionable. I did add some extra protection between the edges to ensure that they don’t short each other. I slapped some mini cut out cardboard strips that I wrapped in kapton and slapped in between.

I did have a dud cell to practice welding on and I made sure they put holes in. There were some reall good holes after a few tries.

I did have some overlapping and I did have kapton separating those.

I appreciate the pointers though…I was a bit warying working on it and had a few scares and a bucket of water ready at all times. If I ever decide to make another I have a good number of things I’d do differently.