Is it possible to fabricate a differential for esk8, thus allowing for less motors but still getting 4WD?

So you changing the space under the board to mount the motor not a practical comparison.

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Well for esk8 there are other constraints at play, but I was just trying to say that my original point is still valid, that scaling up motors of similar construction yields more power to size ratio the bigger it goes.

Max 65 vs 80 I’d say there is a difference but you right there is a bigger bearing in there vs the 2 bearings in the smaller motors. Larger motor needs more suport in my opinion

The difference in the 74-80 is the larger bearing

Yeah it’s annoying how they don’t state the stator size, just motor can size, and they can’t even get that right sometimes. The ratings are all over the place too, 1 rating for 3 different KV? how is that possible. Pretty sure they just pull numbers from a hat lol

By increasing the length you increas the resistance of the windings witch is a disadvantage but you also increase the ion core witch takes longer to saturate due to its length witch is a advantage.

Smaller electrical motors are easer to dial in with more tolerance so generally smaller motors end up been more efficient and powerful. Think of small bugs ants can lift 10 times there own weight a elephant cant

Getting 2 motors to play nice is a tricker task than 1 big motor

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esk8 is just a weird size too. When you get to RC car size, 2 small motors are just too small. 1 big one to drive 4 wheels is enough. Full size cars also don’t really benefit from 4 motors. Too big and heavy. I think that + the fact that it is hard to fit differentials onto trucks makes independent motors appealing.

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Cars are more to do with cost 1 big motor is cheaper to make than 2 small motors and there not restricted on space as much.

Even in e skate 6355 is $104 vs 6396 $148 you get more ban for your buck from larger motors

Rc cars we can only make motors so small there’s a point it’s not efficient to go smaller

I’m not entirely sure that it is only cost for cars. Even very top end performance-only cars rarely run 4 motors. Roadster runs 3, Porsche runs 2. I think there is a balance of parts complexity, motor size and power/weight.

A cheaper esk8 with a locked rear axle and big motor is a good option for budget builds with big advantages over a 1WD almost as good as a 2WD with only a small increas in cost over a 1WD

Would love to see @BuildKitBoards Jared develop a kit.

I literally see 1WD on the same level as boosted boards

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One major thing nobody is comparing, is why the differential or second motor at all?

I think folks become blind to how good single drive actually can be, because all photos posted of builds are dual drive and so folks assume you need that and build more, which causes more folks to see them and build yet more.

If you actually make a quality single drive with a huge motor and ride it for a few hundred kilometers you can see they are very awesome and with less parts to fail.

I mostly ride single drives, despite having dual drives charged and ready to ride, right next to them.

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I’m keen to try this out because my orbiter build, which is running a single 6374 190kv, 14/44 gearing on 97mm reflys have trouble when braking downhill. The wheel does come to a stop, but the board still rolls. Two wheels stopping will help better, so i’ll give it a shot. If no differential, both rear wheels will keep spinning the same rpm, but i’m curious to see if it matters that much on a short deck.

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Maybe it’s a pneumatics/shit riding technique thing, but sometimes on ridiculous toe side turn leans I’d be lifting my single drive wheel off the ground. Which is not good.

I also don’t like the idea of only having a single belt keeping me safe when going downhill towards busy intersections.

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I spent a very good amount of time trying to research and make something for this (all documented on the old forum) I concluded that making a differential this small would:

  1. Cost more than just buying a second motor
  2. Be incredibly hard to maintain
  3. Double the points of failure for your board
  4. Reduce overall output power
  5. Reduce possible gear ratios (unless you want to make a separate “transmission”, adding even more points of failure

This being said, I did actually cad and machine one, it didn’t work :slight_smile:

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Got any pics of your attempt?

Nah, it was 2016 I believe, those pics are long gone with my old phones. Keep in mind I was also barely 12 years old when I made that, so it definitely could’ve been a flawed design. My proposed downsides still hold true tho.

I figured power output would be the same since it’s still 1 motor powering a drivetrain, just two now, and that range would drop by a bit due to the extra belt drag.

Yea, but you also get all the added friction as losses from an additional differential even before you get into connecting the differential to the wheels.

Uhh… where did you get the idea that most things truly “good” are anything close to cheap in DIY esk8 haha. Quality setups akin to ones autistic wet dreams are expensive.

Did you see the part where I still made it anyway
and it didn’t work? Or maybe the part where I was 12 so not exactly ballin hard enough to make tons of prototypes?

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No offense but I saw the part where you were 12 and I made the assumption that you did just about zero true engineering and also had somebody else machine it or did a very poor job haha.

First time I was using manual Mills/lathes was 15, and even with an instructor who’s beat out Harvard’s HPV machine shop, my shit sucked big ass.

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