šŸ§Æ InfinitySink - CNC Machined Universal Heatsink

Im 220lbs, 193cm, running gears on an 18s, anything over 35wh/mile would get me thinking somethings up, even when pushing it.

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how is the terrain where you live? we have a lot of hills around hereā€¦ canā€™t think of anything else

running 12s w/ BN gears, 3.95 ratio. 6384 170kv motors

i thought my consumption was pretty standard for hard riding :thinking:

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I run along dunes, beach run, strong winds, even then, I wouldnā€™t come close to that level of consumption. What range you getting?? Whatā€™s size battery?

Are your gears getting really hot??

running a 12s8p p42a battery, typically get 25 miles of hard riding. could easily push 30+ if i went slow

and no, gears and motor temps arent really an issue (at least in the winter) :thinking:

Would there be any discrepancy between watt hours/mile versus watt hours/kilometer?

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I ran my ubox with a heatsink on a dual motor fiido q1s, I weight like 260. My settings were 80 total battery amps and 75 motor amps each side. My vesc would average between 65c to 75c in 90 degree weather. This is me riding my fiido hard.

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Can you show us what your freeroll looks like? (Full throttle it on the bench and let go of the throttle. )

I have ten heatsinks left, so those who have in-progress/upcoming builds, head on over to pick one up: https://www.machinesuits.com/product-page/infinitysink-2022

Not planning a restock anytime soon.

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Iā€™m in the process of designing my own heatsink for my board and looking around for some inspiration.

Iā€™m curious as to why you decided to cut pockets in the fin plate for the bolt heads. If you were to countersink the mount plate holes then you could cut down manufacturing time significantly by turning the fin plate into a single op? This would also increase the thermal contact area(not enough to be noticeable?) as the bolt heads would be able to transfer heat into the fin plate as well. I assumed it was because you wanted to keep the mounting plate as thin as possible, but a standard 90degree M3 FHCS only needs a minimum thickness of 1.45mm and the mounting plate is 2mm thick.

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Cap screws allow a bigger hex key

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Thatā€™s a good point, didnā€™t really think about that, but do you really need the extra hex size when the bolts are essentially sealed from the elements and donā€™t require much torque?

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Probably not, but its still nice!

Screw it (hehe get it?) I might use SHCS, youā€™re right theyā€™re so user friendly haha

Sorry, missed this somehow.

I originally intended to counter-sink, however damn near everyone in the development thread asked for socket head only. Also, you are correct, I wanted to keep the mounting plate as thin as possible. M3 countersink screws would have been fine, however, v1 used M5 screws for Vesc6 compatibility, and the current version uses M4 screws for MakerX ESCs.

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Getting Lowā€¦

Five sinks left (after one donated for esk8con raffle)

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Also, apparently, this sink will now support MakerXā€™s D Series with the new cases!

Just turned that five into four!

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Bringing the last three to Esk8Con. If you find me, $50 a pop (no shipping obv). See you all tomorrow!