I got this Inboard battery that the guy wants me to swap the cells over for p26a.
Has anyone opened one of these before? There are no screws (i pulled back the stickers to check) and the seam around the edges is incredibly tight.
Anyone got any hints for me so i dont destroy it?
Looks to be ultrasonic fusing/welding
These are not words I want to hear
time to bust out ur prybar 
Using that open picture as a guide you might be able to go around the outside with a dremel cutting wheel, carefully.
Re sealing it will be fun
I personally wouldn’t use a cutting wheel. I’ve opened a few small eskate batteries like that, just not an Inboard one yet.
I usually use a metal spudger to get my foot in the door, so to speak. Then I’ll take a couple of plastic spudgers to that gap and start working around the perimeter to break the adhesive and/or free the clips.
Don’t be too afraid of cracking the case. If an internal clip breaks off, or something cracks a bit, it’s not too hard to repair it once it’s open.
Yeah I’d take an exacto and LIGHTLY score the case along the sonic weld line bit by bit starting at the handle looking part and keep squeezing it until it pops the plastic case off.
Are you going to put a better connector on it. Pretty sure most of those melted lol. I have an m1 with a shorted esc that trips the bms of any battery attached.
I’ve opened one up before. I heated up a small box cutter and slowly sliced through the plastic until I was able to gently pry open the enclosure. Once inside you’ll find the cells directly welded to the bms pcb. You should be able to remove the cells quite easily but the pads on the pcb that the cells are welded to are beefed up with some sort of metal so be careful not to rip those off. It would probably be easier to just snip the nickel right before the pad and weld the new Nickel on top of the old stuff. To seal it back up (after testing of course) I used black hot glue and then cut and sanded off the excess. Hope this helps!
Thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated!
Will keep ya’ll posted
I got it out. I ran a sharp blade all the way around the perimeter and could hear the bond breaking as I went around. Went all the way round a couple of times and then managed to start an opening with small screwdrivers.
Got the lid off and couldn’t budge the pcb, so I heated the bottom with the heat gun and flexed it a bit. Took a few goes with the heat gun, but it came out ok.
Funny that heat released it tho, it was just silicone holding it down.
Nickel tabs appear to be 8mm… which i don’t have. Gonna have to cut my own strips to fit through the slots in the pcb.
Will update with further progress as it happens.
Hey man, any update on how hard it was to repair these? I got someone who wants me to try fixing a couple for him and I’m wondering if it’s easily doable. Was it as easy as welding some tabs onto fishpaper-sided cells and soldering them into place on the PCB or did the BMS give you trouble?
Did you replace the negative wire too? Looks too tiny for any reasonable current.
It was a little fiddly but basically what you just said.
There’s literally no room between cells for fish paper so i just siliconed all of them and hoped for the best.
That negative wire is tiny 
but nah i didn’t replace it, just left as is
Sweet, good to hear. I’ll give it a shot then. Thanks!
Just getting into this battery issue as mine just died last night. Any chance you can break down the repair? Looking across different posts on the internet I’m not sure anyone has identified the issue. Some just replace all the batteries to be safe, others blame the BMS. I still have one good batter for now, knock on wood. Thanks for any additional details.
I have no idea dude. Guy asked me to replace cells, i replaced cells. It was pretty straight forward, but not what I would call an enjoyable job.
If he didn’t come back I guess it fixed it 
Thanks for the response.
I plugged a lipo cell into one of these and everything got hot fast. Something is probably shorted as there was some black soot dotted around. Glad i checked with another battery before messing around too much.
Totally guessing it looks like the brake dump load connection got wet as its the lowest point inside and rusted badly meaning the voltage had no where to go and boom.
