In praise of cheap spot welder

I got this spot welder for 18 at the time. I used a 12v lifepo4 battery. I can only do a few welds at a time, and then rest, but the welds are every bit as good as a better machine. It really leaves no excuse to home brew your batts. Never mind finding a pack that MAY fit. DESIGN your battery to be custom fitted. Make it flex. Make it do JUST what YOU want. I have found that I can craft a batt for a third the cost. The advantages to building the batt with the deck and enclosure on hand cannot be denied.

I simply do my cutting and such, while waiting for the welder to cool down. I have made two batts already, and dont think the welder will slow down any time soon, so long as I dont get impatient. It is tiny and doesnt take 220 volts.
Portable Transistor Mini Spot Welding Machine 18650 Battery - Bing - Shopping

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Are you a bing shopping enjoyer?

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Cheaping out on a spot welder is generally a poor decision. But maybe you can share some weld pictures for the experts?

Also, are you welding pure nickel? Or nickel plated? And the thickness of said material?

This is the welder i use, wont do .3 but kills.2 and .15. Made and posted lots but my photos arnt synced and im on mobile.

Have a vid:

Tear off leaves welds and nickel behind and has good strength easily destroying the cell and nickel removing carelessly placed welds mechanically

I had to modify my welder : added a capacitor and reinforced the traces with copper. Run it from a big lead acid battery i got from the recycle bin

Does amazing work on pure nickel, never used plated but on repairs of cheap packs for friends it welds plated fine. Cant get it to do copper sandwiched or more than two nickel strips stacked

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From one of my older posts:

Still running great

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No, I go to where AL the good shit is, CHINA.

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.15

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I too have this Red inexpensive Spot welder.

There are actually several versions of these red welders available, and apparently the first one offered 3 years ago, was the best, as it used an actual mosfet driver, and not an optocoupler like the later versions.

There are plenty of videos on these cheal mini red ed spot welders on Youtube, some are nearly useless, but the ones by ‘Luca’, go into extreme detail. He talks about what modifications are required to get decent life out of the mosfets. different value resistor here, add capacitor there, check to see if this diode is blown. My red BSW was slightly different than the 3 different red ones he details and I was unsure what i should do, and when.my Lipo arrived, the only thing i did when testing was cut off the 0.8mm thick fork terminals and properly crimp on 1.12mm thick ring terminals.

From what i gather running these on too weak a battery will fry the mosfets. The capacitor mod is to Prevent the gate driver voltage falling too low during the weld and the diode resistor mod is basically in place of an XT90S Antispark. that huge capacitor inrush blows a diode which goes unnoticed until the mosfets blow.

I did not perform the mods Luca recommended, but I do use a separate 12v battery with xt90 antispark to power the circuit board, and a Zee 3s5200mah 80c lipo, with xt90s antispark as the weld battery. I also added more solder to the brass buss bars and mosfet legs.

Before the dual battery trick, I was getting solid welds with 2 layers of 0.15 pure nickel with a 95 millisecond pulse. It goes upto 99ms.

I also ordered a black BSW for about 20$, and it needed a 85ms pulse on its 3rd power level to do one layer of 0.15 nickel. I was disappointed, and hooked it to a pair of AGM golf cart batteries, and it went machine gun on me, itloudly tried to blow several holes in the battery can. Mosfets shorted.

Then the Purple BSW arrived. Luca reviewed this one as well, recommended a few mods, gate decoupling mod, and buzzer disabling. Said it was 3 times faster than the red spot welder. It also has room on the backside of circuitboard for 5 more infineon mosfets.

Another guy on youtube, added 5 more mosfets and beefed up the solder traces,.input and output leads, cranks it upto 99, and solidly welds 0.2 copper 0.2 nickel sandwiches, but no second driver baTtery, and i dont know what the weld battery was.

My purple BSW came with nothing , so I transferred the leads from the Red, used two 12V batteries, one for driving mosfets, one for welding.

I can solidly weld 0.15 copper with 0.10 nickel steel cap with a 50ms pulse, using the infinite slot method and the purple spot welder. No slot between electrodes, and the weld is not acceptable

With the copper nickel sandwich method, nickel plated steel works better than pure nickel. I am cutting 12mm wide 0.15 copper in half lengthwise, and 10mm nickel steel.in half lengthwise, then lightly welding those together, off battery, with a 8ms pulse, then laying two pre-sandwiched strips with a small gap across cells tops and 45 to 50ms pulse leads on opposite side of gap solidly welds both to battery.

Takes forever cutting the Nickle and copper strips welding them together, positioning sandwich on battery, then welding them. If 0.15 copper equals 0.6 of pure nickel, it seems worth it, to me

I can do the same with the RED BSW, at 85ms. Same battery same leads. The purple one has more gusto. The red has a better interface with the programmable delay and optional foot switch ability.

There is definitely a Goldilocks zone on the weld battery size/ health/ resistance with these.

How hard one pushes the welding pens has huge effect on the weld. Too hard yields a poor weld. I have no experience with malectrics or Kweld, but i imagine they yield better consistency of weld.

Please note the welds which appear to be in wrong spot near shoulders were the pre welds joining copper to nickel off battery, before welding that sandwich to battery.

Aligning all 4 strips on cell tops with gap is near impossible, so welding them together first and positioning just 2 is much easier.

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Wonders never cease of the levels of subjective tolerance for cost savings and appetite for risk…it works until it doesn’t. Then what?

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Let me turn that around on you. Watcha gonna do when your more expensive CHINESE spot welder stops working?

I took it on as a project before i was doing eskate builds. For $20 and about 30 cents from mouser i was able to get my hands into battery building. The tutorial for repairing it on youtube were clear and simple to follow so it was a no brainer. Scissors cut, welders weld - a tool is only as good as the person using it - if you’re ok with crappy welds a kweld won’t do your qc for you.

A good weld is obvious after doing a few thousand- if i have to pause every 100-200 welds because the probes are getting warm so be it :rofl: otherwise id forget to drink my coffee. Really though i want a bench top ac welder but those are beyond hobby prices and a kweld is just a middle ground compromise imho.

Though i have had great success with this welder I would recommend borrowing a really good one from a maker space near you if you’re near a large metro area - cheaper and probably better. Probably could find one with an ac spot welder and knock out all your p groups in an hour.

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Is this the same welder, thinking of buying it to repair my 10s3p with 0.15 nickel. Anybody have an idea which energy source version is best. I have a friend with lipos/RC hobby planes or could source a used truck battery.

That does appear to be the same as mine, but mine does not have xt60 optional input.

Earlier in this thread i posted a pic of my welds I was thought were fine and dandy but were mostly inadequate on the pull test, and I had to bump up the pulse duration and redo all of them.

I use a 5.2 amp hour ‘80c’ zee lipo, but woukd get a larger higher quality Lipo, or use two in parallel.

I did add solder from busbar to mosfet legs.
I use a separate 12v baTtery to power the mosfet driver.
I have upgraded 10awg to 8awg, which reduced the pulse duration required by 10ms.

There is a Goldilocks zone on battery size. A huge healthy lead acid battery is likely far outside this zone, for this welder.

Look into Luca’s you tube videos.
He has 2 on this Purple spot welder, but he misnames it as pink.

There’s ways to disable the ultra loud buzzer.

I added heatsinks to mosfets and use a fan across them and the lipo to achieve better consistency, and try and keep lipo above 11.8v.

0.15 nickel, 45 ms pulses were solid, before I 8awg’d the leads.

I also use a xt90 s antispark when hooking up the mosfet driver battery.

I’d successfully built a second battery using my cheap 21$ purple spot welder.

I used 0.1mm copper capped with 0.1 nickel plated steel, and the same Zee 5.2 ah lipo weld battery, and another separate 12v battery just to power the circuit board mosfet driver.

I’d upgraded the 10 awg to 8awg and used fatter weld pens, and was able to lower pulse duration by 10 to 15 milliseconds to the 70ish range. I found consistency improved greatly with a powerful 90mm computer fan blowing over the mosfets and weld Lipo, specifically its short length of 12awg to the Xt90s that I swapped to it.

There is another inexpensive spot welder on the market.

Also purple. This one is programmable, dual pulse, and has 1, or 7 more Mosfets than my older purple welder.

Kekk k100

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805395084787.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

This guy shows how to modify it to prevent low input voltage frying the mosfets, but apparently there is a revision which does not require it.

I think I’d just drive its circuitboard with a separate 12v battery via an XT 90S antispark, if i were to acquire it.

I’d like to use 0.15mm copper and 0.1 NPS sandwich on future batteries.

Perhaps a better weld lipo, or a second one in parallel) would allow my existing purple welder to accomplish that, or maybe acquiring this newer dual pulse welder would be justified.

I couldn’t and can’t justify a Kweld or Malelectics or a Glitter, for as few batteries as I plan(ed) on building.

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Luca put out another Video in which he claims to have another modification for this new double pulse Purple spot welder.
He indicates the time to switch on the FETs is fine, but the time to shut them off takes too long.

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@Ac53n this is the thread to be in :eyes:

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