Oh the new one is glued down, otherwise i would have flipped it back, i dont know why its screwed in and glued down.
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oh no no, i wasnât talking about the esc itself, i was talking about the whole unit including the heatsink, mine is still stuck after i remove 10 billions screws
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I think thatâs the 10-billion-and-one screws model.
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i can probably get rich by smelting all the screw and resell whatever steel they used 
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OP with the hurricane please forgive the exasperation here but frankly the only thing correct is the âidkâ. Also what do you mean âhandle the protectionsâ? These are 3 largely very separate things.
A fuse is an emergency one-time safety mechanism that should never be activated unless thereâs a fault. A fuse mechanically breaks a current once itâs beyond safe limits, and unless youâve installed entirely the wrong fuse it will do this very reliably. Its job is to stop unexpected high fault currents, and no circuit should ever be able to generate the voltage and/or current necessary to defeat a fuse and continue after it has blown. A MOSFET antispark canât usually do this because the gate junctions are microscopic, itâs possible for a lot of circuits to create a voltage high enough to bridge that gap. Fuses are not there to prevent moderately high, or not-ideal-for-the-cells-high, or any other sort of high current that the ordinary systems can manage. Theyâre there as a last line of defense to stop the system catching fire in case of short circuits and major malfunctions.
A BMS prevents overcharge, over discharge, and other parameters related to protecting the health of the cells. A fuse canât do this, nor can an antispark, because theyâre not measuring anything to do with the cells, theyâre not connected to different cell groups just the pack as a whole, and theyâre not equipped with any way of dissipating cell energy.
An antispark - particularly when integrated in the design from the start - is meant to activate every time in normal operation. Its job is to reduce expected high momentary currents. Sparks occur when a voltage is big enough to jump a gap, this happens either by having a big voltage or a small gap. Mechanical connects where a physical objection at one voltage touches a physical object at another voltage, are then obvious sources of sparks. A charger thatâs almost made contact will have a small gap, a pin thatâs inserted and then separates from the mating surface by micrometers is a small gap, lots of voltage-gap combinations that will cause a spark exist all over the place. Usually the total energy transferred through a spark is low because the voltages equalise quickly or the system doesnât have any substantial amount of charge available to dump quickly, ie it canât output high current for a long time. Big lithium packs have a fair bit of charge available to dump, and the voltage gaps while not crazy can be sufficient for higher energy sparks. What antispark devices do is make sure that while the mechanical connection is made (ie the gap is very small), that there isnât a compete circuit to allow current to flow or a big enough voltage. So you make mechanical connection but not electrical, then you electrically connect the rest of the circuit with a transistor.
This happens every time, and to suggest it could be managed at all by a fuse, let alone handled better than a FET AS, is ludicrous. See a graph of I2T curves for fuseable current to get why
In this case I suspect itâs not purely an antispark but also a gatekeeper to validate the charger. Thereâs a small 3rd pin coming from the charger that goes to the AS, this looks like a handshake validator so if you plug any old charger in it wonât connect to the battery because the system canât guarantee it will work safely.
In conclusion, stay in your lane and if youâre going to make observations and guesses:
- Donât do it on the post of a newish member using a prebuilt board
- Explicitly acknowledge the limitations of your knowledge or how certain you are in the answer. I do this all the time, thereâs lots of stuff Iâm not sure about and itâs dangerous if my confidence is mistaken for expertise and wastes someoneâs time or gets them hurt
- Donât get defensive and ask why people are attacking you for correcting this or ask what youâve done wrong. Weâve pointed out glaring technical errors to you many many times, particularly battery-related, and gone back and forth about the real impacts that bad technical advice and practices can have
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In case you were interested it looks like the thin red wire runs just from the charge port to the antispark.
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Thanks!
HmmâŚas @mr.shiteside noted, that thin red wire goes to a different pin. That complicates things. We need to see where that goes in the chargerâŚif possible.
Of course, voltage measurements on that pin before/during/after charger connection would be incredible but I know that requires a heck of a setup. 
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soâŚwant me to send u a charger? 
it might take awhile tho, i might have another 12s charger as replacement
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Thank you for the offer! That will cost a fortune though and isnât guaranteed to answer our questions since the board is dead.
Iâm hoping someone has already popped open one of the chargers.
the module that i sent to u isnât dead tho, might have some insight on if the 3rd pin is doing something useful?
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AhhâŚgood point. I forgot.
Would you be comfortable opening up your charger? Do not plug it into anything for at least a day before doing this though!
Just seeing where the third connection goes might be enough. We wouldnât have to spend the money/time on sending the charger so far.
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my charger hasnât been plug in the wall for at least a week now should be safe enough to open.
i will see if i have time to open it up and snap some pics
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Thank you, that would be incredibleâŚwhenever convenient, no rush.
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Hello, the hurricaneâs integrated switch is a NO type and I got a makerx dv4s for the hurricane which uses a NC button. Any way to make the stock NO meepo button with the dv4s, or?
Also, @Battery_Mooch , you seem knowledgeable and i am seeking your help. I removed the module between the charging port and battery (because it fried itself like many others) and replaced it with an 8A fuse. What i noticed before doing that is that when the charger is connected to the board but not the wall, the light on the charger lights up, meaning that electricity flows from the battery to the charger. Is it a good idea to restrict the flow of electricity with a CLD only from the charger to the battery, or is that not such a good idea? The hurricaneâs âantisparkâ is quite jank and whilst I can replace it, i would prefer not having it at all. Thanks!
IMO a CLD wonât be of any additional help here as any diode will block battery-to-charger current flow and with a CLD you need to design it in properly to prevent it from burning out. Unless you also want to use it instead of the fuse, which I donât recommend. Keep it simple and bulletproof, use a fuse.
Youâll need to hugely overrate the diode(s) though since they will get hot due to their large voltage drop. As an example, if charging at 8A then use three 10A diodes in parallel. Be sure to use Schottky diodes to ensure the lowest voltage drop and shop around for the ones with the lowest drop at the current level that will be flowing through them.
You can also use a PFET as an ideal diode though to reduce the heating. Simple circuit and lots of examples/info online. Compare/contrast its advantages/disadvantages with CLDâs if still considering them,
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