I’m currently tinkering with VESC settings for my new setup. It’s a stock Meepo battery, (2) skyart solos, and Flipsky 6384s.
I am worried about the regen braking power and so I currently have it set to -25amps. This seems to be somewhat weak brakes at -25 amps but I don’t want to blow the BMS by trying to push -40amps of regenerative power from motors. Meepo send me the charger specs when I asked them, smh.
Brakes almost don’t work at all at slow speeds, they are decent and get stronger the faster I am going. But I want to set them to be VERY strong, preferably when at slow speeds too but not as big of a deal. Right ow I have it set to -25 I believe on VESC tool so you think I could do -35?
You can set the motor regen higher, like -80. That will help low speed brakes. Battery regen helps with high speed braking.
Only the battery regen needs to match what the BMS is rated for. Keep in mind if the bms is not bypassed, then it’s the discharge rating of the BMS you would go by for battery regen, not the charge rating.
Also a good idea to disable or significantly raise any overvoltage protections the BMS has. I’ve seen a few ESCs fail this way. Once the BMS detects overvoltage and cuts power, voltage in the ESC overshoot and fry the mosfets.
Best bet is to bypass the bms for discharge though.
Oh boy that all sounds somewhat impossible with the stock BMS built into the Meepo enclosure. I’d like to simply keep the settings low until I get the upgraded pack with a new BMS.
Do you know if it’s possible to bypass the stock Meepo BMS? I haven’t touched the motor regen settings yet because I have to plug into my computer to do it(I’ve been using the phone settings) but I’ll try to set the motor regen high and keep the battery regen at -30, unless this sounds too high?
70/-30 battery amps per side should be fine, and maybe 90/-60 motor amps per side
But it depends how you run it, if you’re holding at 70 motor amps all the time you’re gonna cook them in no time, but I’m sure you can spike them over 100 without issue
I personally would set the brake limits to just below when your board starts to skip when you max it out, and adjust the motor current until you can hold the motor for a moment after riding
Bypassing a BMS is risky business unless you know how batteries are built, the general jist is you desolder the old discharge lead on the BMS (usually marked P-) and resolder it to the battery pad next to the existing wire (usually B-) or to whatever that wire connects to on the battery side (replace the battery to B- with the same gauge wire as the on connected to C-)