Hummie hubs Kickstarter

I’m abit surprised no one is pushing for hallsensors tho? I found my other hubs intolerable without em.

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No bearing in my home has ever not failed. Send some to folks who have brine on their roads in the winter…

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Although id like to get the other hanger done there’s concern…and no more money for it. If I had the bucks id make it fly too. We’re getting the v4 with other stator for easy roll and that’s it. Sensors could be put in later or maybe Dom we as they’re cheap, just need them designed for a tiny space. I haven’t been looking into them much. On a pcb would be possible if just on the outer ring or something where the pcb took minimal space.

@linsus have u tried increasing ur motor amps? I can start from a stop w the slightest rocking like that.

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If you ride hummie hubs, you’ll see they really don’t need hall sensors. I do wounder how this new stator will affect that though. There’s a little bit of a trade off in this new stator. Better rolling resistance is important though.

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@hummieee the page has been cleaned up based on me just scrolling through. Lmk if there is anything else you want removed.

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are we sure the motor isn’t just storing potential energy and then re-releasing it? i’m not entirely convinced the cogging results in any net rolling resistance with enough inertia… and I thought FOC is supposed to take care of the torque ripple.

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I wonder if hangers you have are threaded rod stock which leads to them not being perfectly straight or as strong. I cant find the comment where you mentioned possible pressed in 12 axles, i think that would be the best option, with only the important areas threaded. With a CNC machined hanger and bushing seat designed by @RipTideSports

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ive got some with threading the whole way and some partially threaded. I think the casting warps the axle as is common with casting the axle in. I wonder if there were another axle that would be less likely to warp but they aren’t open to using other materials for their axle even though. it works and only one bent in normal use and I have tons extra I could ship if anyone were to bend one.

So I was thinking about this. I fly a heap of race drones and motors in this industry are far more “fleshed out”. One thing that people don’t seem to agree on is that a “coggy motor” vs “non coggy” gives the same overall performance (keeping in mind there are a lot more variables in drones). I have seen some motors such as the zmx that actually take advantage of what Hummie stumbled upon in his last major run on these motors. So then the question becomes. Could you not redesign the shape to take advantage of the effect and smooth out the magnetic fields?

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They put the iron strategically to hold in the magnetic field. the field comes out the sides of the magnet so ironically the gap is behind the magnet and the iron tooth between the magnets. I have it the same with 14 teeth on the bell for 14 magnets. it adds magnetic strength but more cogging as the magnetic pull between magnet and stator teeth is enhanced
. Cogging is just the common pulling of magnets to teeth and if u orient them differently in relation to each other you can counteract this. In most uses people don’t care about cogging as its only when unpowered. In eskate we want reduced cogging and

there’s different approaches done. Generally a high amount of teeth and magnets will accomplish this. torqueboards direct drive was 24 teeth and 26 or 28 magnets I forget now. Or u can do it the very rare way mellow hub motors do it with separate teeth that are later assembled so there is no gap between the teeth. But a 15 tooth stator with 14 magnets in my modeling which I posted on the ks shows as well as the mellow and torque boards high magnet+tooth count. And over 3x less cogging than a standard 12N14P motor almost everyone uses in eskate and I used to use.

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Did you check how much copper can you fit in this new design?

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its a bit more copper with the new stator as I can do a 21mm id as apposed to the old 24mm id but I left it at that and would have to really wind it to know what can fit as the epoxy put on will take some space and I don’t trust the simulations at that point.

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I’m confused - how does more teeth not lead to longer runs of thinner wire and consequently greater resistance and heat?

edit: “Optimal Pole Number and Winding Designs for Low Speed–High Torque Synchronous Reluctance Machines”

^page 8, “the lower the pole number, the greater the mean torque”

page 17, “On the one hand, a low pole number is recommended for high mean torque, power factor and efficiency. On the other hand, the pole number has negligible effect on the torque ripple;”

page 17, “A low pole number is recommended to obtain a higher efficiency, because they can produce higher output powers with similar losses”

That’s a beautifully wound stator!

ART!

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Maybe that switching from 12 to 15 teeth is still considered low enough. The ability to send more refined waves via more teeths through the same number of magnets must come into play, however challenge is to keep a high cost density.

well I didn’t wind that stator. that’s mellow’s. I posted it to show a strange approach to getting rid of cogging. the teeth are separate and then assembled that way there are no gaps between teeth to reduce the cogging a lot and easier to get a lot of copper on.
zeroing in on the kickstarter end. No news and hoping to get last stragglers.

It’s an all or nothing campaign isn’t it? Getting a bit close now :open_mouth:

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ill be throwing in the rest to get there

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Yeah it’s in the TOS that if you attempt to self fund you’ll have your project suspended. So probably can that idea.

that doesn’t make sense. its not actually me its my family who are donating. theres a donating option. and they get like 5 percent.
I don’t see anything dubbed TOS on there

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