Hoyt Puck sending full brake/reverse signals after being smashed

[jack.luis]

Will do as soon as I finish kickpushing home from work haha

[taz]

Although I agree the title is a little dramatic, there have been other cases of the Hoyt Puck malfunctioning, which can happen with any machine/electronic equipment sooner or later.

[Dareno]

Of course but the whole tried to kill me thing is over the top and good solid vendors need to be protected from this kind of knee jerk sensationalism.

Hoyt boys are good people

We know this but there are a lot of people out there that do not. We have as a community an obligation to protect those that do it right. There are enough that do it wrong.

[taz]

In case it was not obvious, I was agreeing with you

[Dareno]

In the way my wife agrees with me.
There’s always a caveat. Lol

[Dareno]

Thanks for that brother. The guys will get you sorted.

[malJohann]

@jack.luis

Those movements are not from me moving the wheel.

Mine did the same before I calibrated on the Unity for the first time. Does it continue doing this after calibration?

[JohnnyMeduse]

PPM is disabled, the motor should not even run with the remote. My guess is there something funky with your setting, I would suggest to program you esc with a PC.

[jack.luis]

I disabled PPM so that my board wouldn’t scream in the middle of my office while people were trying to work

[BluPenguin]

Just tell them it’s screaming for toilet paper

[JohnnyMeduse]

Which Version of the remote you have?

[jack.luis]

Just put my nano back into my build, works perfectly. This is on Hoyt…

[jack.luis]

No idea. Bamboo?

[mmaner]

@Dareno

We have as a community an obligation to protect those that do it right. There are enough that do it wrong.

True story, can confirm.

I’ve been testing gear for Hoyt for a while now. I’ve never tested for another manufacturer that was as hands on and interested in the truth than these guys.

Top of pack vendor/manufacturer, truth.

[mmaner]

@jack.luis

Just put my nano back into my build, works perfectly. This is on Hoyt…

That is NOT conclusive. A good config for the nano could be way off for the puck. You have to have accurate values for top, bottom and center or any remote will go nuts.

[jack.luis]

I know, I did the setup again like I have countless times. The steps on how to calibrate above did no work for me and I even attached a video showing it not working. These steps are not on the product page for the puck and that is a mistake.

These are the steps I’m talking about

@GeraldSwerdfegger

Hoyt st puck remote recalibration.

Step 1：Press the TRIM, MODE, and POWER buttons at the same time, and the green LEDs will flash slowly to indicate the calibration mode

Steps 2: Move the throttle wheel to the max and min positions and let it return back to center, then press the REVERSE button to exit and restart.

Steps 3: After step 2, the remote will beep and vibrate once. This indicates that the calibration was successful.

Steps 4: If the remote vibrates once but doesn’t beep, the calibration has failed. Restart the remote and repeat steps 1-3.

[BluPenguin]

To be fair, even the best manufacturer can have a dud once in awhile. Best let someone from hoyt look at it and see if its user error or a defect

[mmaner]

@jack.luis

These steps are not on the product page for the puck and that is a mistake.

Could be, but I assume since the remotes are calibrated before leaving the vendors shop that this could do more harm than good with inexperienced users.

Regardless, having a cool head and keeping your anger in check will yield you much better results. I say this from experience.

[jack.luis]

You’re right, I’m sorry . I just had to work a 12hr shift with this hole in my hand and I’m letting it get to me.

[mmaner]

It’s all good, shit happens right .

For real tho, JJ and Pete will get you sorted, both great guys.