No problem 
Let me know if you are able to load firmware over USB by updating the bootloader then firmware and not having to use the SWD port. If so, I’ll update the main instructions
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afzal on ES confirms USB upload of bootloader and USB bootload update of firmware.
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Thank you very much!
Just flashed your hacked FW through USB. EasyPeasy. BLDC , DC, GPD (whatever that is) modes are all there.
Need to install it back in the scooter, but if you dont hear from me in a few days then assume its working.
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On what settings are you running it and what is the max battery current you can pull?
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I’ve only been running 30A / 50pA because that’s all the ebike can take based on the battery & phase wire gauge. I’m planning a P26A battery build and an upgraded motor, but that’s a few months out.
The 5.2 hacked firmware should perform the same as the 5.2 stock firmware. I kept all the firmware limits the original one had. I could compile a no limit firmware if you want, but if you are running into over current faults there are other things to try first.
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The over current is not my biggest concern since, it runs fine with 100pA. The over current fault occurs just over 100pA when it’s running out of specs. My concern is the lack of power and the produced heat.
The power @120pA (37bA) was decent, @100pA (34bA) it is ok.
But the big difference between pA and bA is stressing the controller too much and it runs hot in a couple seconds.
Here are some logs with 40pA, 50pA, 60pA, 70pA all set to 120bA.
Even @60pA it runs way too fast hot and the outside temperature was just 5C.
I can’t imagine that i can handle more than 30pA during summer time, that’s why I asked at what setting you are running it.
So far the performance is just a little better than it was on 13S 20A battery with a cheap Chinese 15A FOC controller and I’m using now a 20S 105A battery with a claimed 100A controller.
pico ampere?
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phase Amps
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Are you running the stock firmware or the hacked firmware above? I think you are right about the unit overheating fairly quickly. Though even a VESC 6 will thermal throttle down to about 40 motor amps if run at full amps for more than a few minutes.
I did notice a massive performance boost running this vs an 18A Chinese controller though. It can basically climb any hill at full speed, which wasn’t possible before.
This run was set to 30 battery amps and 40 motor amps on the stock firmware. The motor is voltage limited to about 20mph so I’m basically full throttle most of the time (watch the duty cycle)
<metr log 1>
This test was at 35 battery 50 motor
<metr log 2>
My temps were decent at that amp draw.
I plan to do a few more tests with field weakening later this week so we will see how that goes. That should allow me to artificially up the amps and see if I get the same overheating results you did.
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I run the stock FW.
Your logs look waaay better than mine. I don’t unterstand how you can pull 35bA/50pA and 30ba/40pA at such low temperature compared to my logs. Yours look like how I expected to be.
BTW, my hub motor is limited to 67km/h on 20S (30 poles, 25kV).
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My logs are on a small “500w” geared hub motor running at 1500w (44 saggy volts and 35 battery amps). It gets up to top speed in just a few seconds so it doesn’t draw a lot of motor amps for long. Those big direct drive hubs need a lot of power to get moving and climb hills. The longer you run high phase amps the quicker it will thermal throttle.
Maybe try a longer ride and make sure the controller has some airflow over it and see how it is. Your logs look like just full throttle tests from a dead stop… that’s when the phase amps will be the highest and overheating the quickest. With a 40mph hub, you basically have the equivalent of really tall gearing so it will do best cruising at high speed rather than raw acceleration… unless you have a massive controller.
However, that’s pretty much what I have coming for this ebike… a ~35mph DD hub haha so we will see…
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I agree with everything you say. Nevertheless the produced power is underwhelming and the heat is too high. The watts we are pulling are pretty similar, but I was expecting that my setup runs cooler since it is on 20S. And I don’t think the ESC is capable of 100A under any circumstances, maybe except active cooling.
The motor I’m running is rated at 450W but it keeps cold.
I’ll try the next time to get some airflow into ESC.
What is your 0-20mph time? mine is like 4s.
BTW, did you change any parameters, or did you just run the wizard?
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From the 35/50 log it looks to be about 5-6 seconds to 20mph (1500w max)
From your 70A log it looks like 0-18mph is about 12 seconds maxing at 26 battery amps (2,000w max) but I’m not sure if that was full throttle or not.
Also that looks like a lot of sag on the battery. 77v down to 73v at only 25A? I get 43v-38v on a 12s4p 30q pack at 50A on my esk8. The battery may be built well but maybe the connectors are bad?
Stock settings, ran the motor & input wizard, then set battery/phase amps.
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You can’t consider the 70pA log since it run hot and pulled even less battery AMPs than the 60pA log. but in 12s I get to over 30mph but it’s still too slow for a 20S3P P42A battery.
Yes, I was wondering about the sag by myself. It should be significant lower than yours.
I’ll check the connectors but don’t think that something is wrong. It’s also interesting that we are pulling similar watt numbers but my 20S is running hotter than your 13S…
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Yeah, the logs above are with a crap Chinese battery. 13s4p with cheap 7A rated cells (no mooch test, they are that unknown).
Maybe I was too critical of your battery… it actually looks like it’s sagging about as much as expected (this would be 30A)
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Nice tool! What are you using? (edit: never mind)
BTW, I checked the 0-20mph time on the 50pA log. It says 11s.
Man that’s as slow as my first Xiaomi M365 (after removing the speed limit) 
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Holy crap that’s slow lol
The Revel kit does it in 7.5 seconds and that isn’t even that fast
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Im running the hacked FW on a ninebot max with a DIY 14s6p packs with new Panasonic icr18650bd cells No BMS, broke the pack into two 7s6p packs with balance taps so I can charge with my RC chargers.
I started using the 75100 w the stock 10s pack, definite improvement from stock but wanted more speed. Added a 3s6p for a 13s pack. More speed but not what I expected. So I decided to build a 14s pack. Been riding with the 14s pack for about a week on stock FW. It was pretty good, way more than most normal people would be happy with but being pretty familiar with bldc motors powered by high current lithium batteries I felt the motor/battery combo was capable of more than I was getting out of it. The hub motors in these scooters are incredible, nice thin laminations, beautiful windings, small airgap, five years ago just the motor itself would cost more than the scooter. The are very conservatively rated IMO.
I saw jaykups hacked FW and decided to flash it. I ran the FOC wizard and basically left the settings the same as I set them with the stock FW. Not sure what the difference is but man, I was shocked, it turned this nb max into an unleashed monster. Much more power, its exactly what I was hoping for.
Unfortunately no logs as Ive been too lazy to install a NRF. Ill report back when I do.
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I do have an accurate speed measurement though. 28mph, doesn’t take long to get there either. The acceleration is the best part actually, its incredible!
One of those “courtesy” radar signs on the road is right down from where Im at. Measured with a fully charged pack at 4.2V per cell 58.8V . Im going to back off to 4V per cell for longevity but wanted to see what she could do.
I really need some sort of logging. Then I will be able to tell the whole story.
Not a bad controller IMO.
Yeah, something isn’t set up correctly. Battery not capable, mismatched motor, wrong settings.