Just downgraded to 5.2 with VESC Tool 3.00. Lower end torque is back, I’m running sensorless mode, no HFI, no problems with motor starting from a standstill. . Its actually running better than it was with the white PCB 75/100 V1. Only thing I did different was I chose the DD hub motor vs large outrunner during the FOC wizard. The values measured/calculated by the wizard was very similar so I cant see how it would really make much of a difference.
I set motor current max to 100, Absolute Max 120A. Battery max 100A , max regen -60 max batt regen -60A.
If only I could get field weakening in addition to the low end torque this scooter would be a beast!
Something I noticed that is different with V2 in VESC Tool 3.0 is that in FOC advanced, the switching frequency is set to 40khz by default, this is up from the default of 30khz with V1. Id figure lower switching speeds would produce slightly more torque but I notice the opposite. Probably unrelated though.
So, for me there is still something off with 5.3 even after turning off filters.
Jaykup, Im going to pull the stock FW bin for you soon. I picked up a ST link tool, just need to take apart my spare V2 to access the SWD pins. From now on Im going to extend the SWD connection and leave it outside of the enclosure.
I’ve been pretty busy with a few other projects, but long story short version 2 using the stock 75_300_R2 makes little sense to me. I’m surprised it works at all. Very different hardware and 5.3 had quite a few changes related to those hardware differences.
I think I have all the info needed to compile a custom firmware for the new version 2 for 5.3. I’m wondering if that will fix the low torque issue. I’ll try to get to this over the weekend for you to test @barthchris as I don’t have a V2 version.
Hello, is there any information with the firmware for version v2? The factory firmware did not run, right now I’m driving on your v5.3, it works, there is a moment, but it displays the voltage instead of 13s - 19s (54.6 - 80.2)
Overheating is definitely an issue with this controller. The outer aluminum case is directly attached to the aluminum bar which is attached to the mosfets. I think just getting the case out in airflow would go a long way towards keeping it cool. That or just bolting any aluminum heatsink that has some airflow or a fan to the black case.
Yes, Jakes 5.3 mod does work. Remember to disable filters(set to false). Field weakening is great! I got my 14s powered ninebot max scooter up to 45kmh yesterday. I slowly increased FW from 15A to 40A, unloaded and with FW set above 30A the wheel spins so fast it sorta scares me! Fine when wheel is on ground.
I do seem to lose low-end torque with 5.3 vs 5.2. If anyone can give suggestions please respond.
BTW, I set motor current to 100A absolute max to 120A battery current to 100A, Absolute max battery to 100A regen to 60A.
I noticed the ESC would max at 35A, peaks around 1300W. The battery Im currently using has a little voltage drop but not much. It should be capable of outputting more power. Not sure whats holding it up. I dont seem to enter a self protect mode. Still sorta new to me so Im going to keep tweaking settings.
I’m really starting to get great performance with 5.3. I was barely making up hills but after tweaking I’m accelerating rapidly up the same hills.
700-800W with peaks around 1300W ,. Now Im at 1600W sustained with peaks over 2KW. Forgot mention this is after I had a scary accident where I shorted/ruined one parallel set of 6 cells. Luckily almost all energy was discharged at the time but enough was left for everything to get very spicy. Quickly was able to cut that section out. Went from a 14s6p to 13s6p. Still have better performance after tweaking.
Learning that it takes much tweaking to get a motor working the way you want. I’m not 100% yet. I can hear some grinding sounds from commutation errors. I can live with the performance but I’m sure it’s robbing some efficiency.
I’m very happy actually. Well worth $79 I paid on AliExpress saw
Can you connect the FS75100 to VESC Tool via an st-linkv2? or a pl2303? or via CAN (or ANY method other than usb or bluetooth?) i think my usb port is dead, bluetooth dongle at least a week out. really want to know if this is doa or just a bad usb…
Maybe someone can help, if this is too unrelated ill start a new thread.
ill just list everything ive done and results ive had for you guys to pick through
planning on running @ 20S
Connect 80v(power supply)-led flashes red/blue. lower voltage and led turns solid blue @ ~56V. thought that was weird lowered to 36v and have stayed there for all further testing.
Cannot connect USB. computer does not recognize anything plugged in. I am well versed in this area, even doubted myself and tried 4 laptops, 3 Os’s, manually open ports, known good cables, etc. i can connect half a dozen other controllers i have sitting around no problem. (Its not a pc problem on my end).
Possible firmware issue? followed Jaykup’s post, bought an st-linkv2, and successfully reflashed the 5.3 hacked firmware with no issues. (I have the white PCB)
still cant connect to vesc tool. no USB. i figure USB is dead at this point.
ive tried the old VESC Tool 3.0 and 3.01, and whatever the latest one off their site is, nothing.
It’s possible that the USB cable is a power only cable, or that it doesn’t fit properly into the female port. On some ESCs, like the OG focboxes, I’ve had to shave down the plastic on the end of the USB cable so it would go in far enough. It should create a new COM port in the device manager when you plug it in after a few seconds. If it does, you can select that COM port manually in the VESC tool rather than use the autoconnect. I’m guessing if you’ve already flashed it with an ST-LINK you probably know all of this though.
I don’t think you can use an ST-LINK to connect to the VESC tool.
You can use a bluetooth dongle (metr, ilogger, robogotchi, NRF51822 or NRF52840, can’t use HM-10 modules anymore) plugged into the comm port.
You can also use a second VESC (any model) with a good USB port and connect the two using the CAN port. Usually just the two data lines, not the power lines. Once connected to the ESC with the good USB port, you should be able to select the bad USB ESC in the VESC tool when you scan for CAN devices.
@jaykup used you linked FW 5.3, it’s working great and can confirm field weakening works very on it too, thanks again for all the work you put into this thread!!
yup ive used known good cables, etc. The connection of the 3 usb wires to the pcb looks pretty shoddy, snipped off the port and cant even connect going directly to the wires, so at this point im calling that out.
thanks for the tip on the CAN, dont have any other vesc’s on hand but i may in the near future.
Will any generic NRF51822/52840 work right out of the box or will i need to flash it/etc to make it work with the vesc?
good guys, there would be some possibility that someone created a detailed manual to be able to update the firmware since it is not entirely clear for those of us who are starting out or do not have so much knowledge :). thank you and it is a pleasure to read you
jaykup
Don’t know what I did wrong, but I followed the instructions you posted and looks like my flipsky is bricked after that. There are also .h and .c files that the instructions doesn’t say what to do with them. is there a way I can restore a bricked 75100?
Can you describe what the ESC is doing and what steps you took to update it? The tool will show a serial I/O error after the firmware is uploaded, but that’s normal. Give it a few minutes and it will reconnect.
The .h and .c files are just the source code files for those who want to see the changes or compile the firmware themselves.
I’ll try to simplify the instructions on the main post, but the basic steps are to download a .bin firmware, rename it, connect through USB with the VESC tool, update the bootloader then upload the firmware.
@jaykup…thanks for quick reply.
Yeah , I did the steps you mentioned. Now the ESC is flashing between red and blue. I can’t find the trouble codes for the 75100 so I don’t know what’s going on. Based what is doing, I have assume is bricked. I can stablish connection with the ESC also try to the run detection routine, after a few seconds says the routine failed and keep flashing between red and blue, never turns green like it supposed to do when do in the run detection routine. If ESC is bricked there is a way to restore it?
spicy. Quickly was able to cut that section out. Went from a 14s6p to 13s6p. Still have better performance after tweaking.