A little off track of the thread, but just a quick question. Anyone know of a heatsink in the works or if one has already been made for the 75100?
@Xgunax posted a picture of a homemade one
Overheating is definitely an issue with this controller. The outer aluminum case is directly attached to the aluminum bar which is attached to the mosfets. I think just getting the case out in airflow would go a long way towards keeping it cool. That or just bolting any aluminum heatsink that has some airflow or a fan to the black case.
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Nice, thanks for the share on that!!
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Yes, Jakes 5.3 mod does work. Remember to disable filters(set to false). Field weakening is great! I got my 14s powered ninebot max scooter up to 45kmh yesterday. I slowly increased FW from 15A to 40A, unloaded and with FW set above 30A the wheel spins so fast it sorta scares me! Fine when wheel is on ground.
I do seem to lose low-end torque with 5.3 vs 5.2. If anyone can give suggestions please respond.
BTW, I set motor current to 100A absolute max to 120A battery current to 100A, Absolute max battery to 100A regen to 60A.
I noticed the ESC would max at 35A, peaks around 1300W. The battery Im currently using has a little voltage drop but not much. It should be capable of outputting more power. Not sure whats holding it up. I dont seem to enter a self protect mode. Still sorta new to me so Im going to keep tweaking settings.
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Tips for flipsky 75 series ESCs upgrade (firmware 5.3) – FLIPSKY. Lol!
I’m really starting to get great performance with 5.3. I was barely making up hills but after tweaking I’m accelerating rapidly up the same hills.
700-800W with peaks around 1300W ,. Now Im at 1600W sustained with peaks over 2KW. Forgot mention this is after I had a scary accident where I shorted/ruined one parallel set of 6 cells. Luckily almost all energy was discharged at the time but enough was left for everything to get very 
spicy. Quickly was able to cut that section out. Went from a 14s6p to 13s6p. Still have better performance after tweaking.
Learning that it takes much tweaking to get a motor working the way you want. I’m not 100% yet. I can hear some grinding sounds from commutation errors. I can live with the performance but I’m sure it’s robbing some efficiency.
I’m very happy actually. Well worth $79 I paid on AliExpress saw
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Can you connect the FS75100 to VESC Tool via an st-linkv2? or a pl2303? or via CAN (or ANY method other than usb or bluetooth?) i think my usb port is dead, bluetooth dongle at least a week out. really want to know if this is doa or just a bad usb…
Maybe someone can help, if this is too unrelated ill start a new thread.
ill just list everything ive done and results ive had for you guys to pick through
planning on running @ 20S
Connect 80v(power supply)-led flashes red/blue. lower voltage and led turns solid blue @ ~56V. thought that was weird lowered to 36v and have stayed there for all further testing.
Cannot connect USB. computer does not recognize anything plugged in. I am well versed in this area, even doubted myself and tried 4 laptops, 3 Os’s, manually open ports, known good cables, etc. i can connect half a dozen other controllers i have sitting around no problem. (Its not a pc problem on my end).
Possible firmware issue? followed Jaykup’s post, bought an st-linkv2, and successfully reflashed the 5.3 hacked firmware with no issues. (I have the white PCB)
still cant connect to vesc tool. no USB. i figure USB is dead at this point.
ive tried the old VESC Tool 3.0 and 3.01, and whatever the latest one off their site is, nothing.
thanks in advance
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It’s possible that the USB cable is a power only cable, or that it doesn’t fit properly into the female port. On some ESCs, like the OG focboxes, I’ve had to shave down the plastic on the end of the USB cable so it would go in far enough. It should create a new COM port in the device manager when you plug it in after a few seconds. If it does, you can select that COM port manually in the VESC tool rather than use the autoconnect. I’m guessing if you’ve already flashed it with an ST-LINK you probably know all of this though.
I don’t think you can use an ST-LINK to connect to the VESC tool.
You can use a bluetooth dongle (metr, ilogger, robogotchi, NRF51822 or NRF52840, can’t use HM-10 modules anymore) plugged into the comm port.
You can also use a second VESC (any model) with a good USB port and connect the two using the CAN port. Usually just the two data lines, not the power lines. Once connected to the ESC with the good USB port, you should be able to select the bad USB ESC in the VESC tool when you scan for CAN devices.
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@jaykup used you linked FW 5.3, it’s working great and can confirm field weakening works very on it too, thanks again for all the work you put into this thread!!
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yup ive used known good cables, etc. The connection of the 3 usb wires to the pcb looks pretty shoddy, snipped off the port and cant even connect going directly to the wires, so at this point im calling that out.
thanks for the tip on the CAN, dont have any other vesc’s on hand but i may in the near future.
Will any generic NRF51822/52840 work right out of the box or will i need to flash it/etc to make it work with the vesc?
thanks again dude.
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good guys, there would be some possibility that someone created a detailed manual to be able to update the firmware since it is not entirely clear for those of us who are starting out or do not have so much knowledge :). thank you and it is a pleasure to read you
thanks again, i finally got a ble module in, plugged it and and i could see it, but vesc app kept saying unrecognized firmware…
swapped rx/tx pins on ble module and i can now connect and talk to it. All this BS over a dead usb port…
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jaykup
Don’t know what I did wrong, but I followed the instructions you posted and looks like my flipsky is bricked after that. There are also .h and .c files that the instructions doesn’t say what to do with them. is there a way I can restore a bricked 75100?
Thanks in Advance
Can you describe what the ESC is doing and what steps you took to update it? The tool will show a serial I/O error after the firmware is uploaded, but that’s normal. Give it a few minutes and it will reconnect.
The .h and .c files are just the source code files for those who want to see the changes or compile the firmware themselves.
I’ll try to simplify the instructions on the main post, but the basic steps are to download a .bin firmware, rename it, connect through USB with the VESC tool, update the bootloader then upload the firmware.
@jaykup…thanks for quick reply.
Yeah , I did the steps you mentioned. Now the ESC is flashing between red and blue. I can’t find the trouble codes for the 75100 so I don’t know what’s going on. Based what is doing, I have assume is bricked. I can stablish connection with the ESC also try to the run detection routine, after a few seconds says the routine failed and keep flashing between red and blue, never turns green like it supposed to do when do in the run detection routine. If ESC is bricked there is a way to restore it?
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The good news is that it’s not bricked 
That usually refers to a device that is completely unresponsive, but it sounds like you can connect and configure it.
Can you open the side cover and look at the circuit board color? Make sure you downloaded the firmware version that matches the color.
After that, load the motor defaults and write, then load the app defaults and write. Disconnect everything but the USB, battery & phase wires and try to run a motor detection again.
You can type “faults” in the terminal of the VESC tool when the red light flashes to see exactly what the fault is.
Finally, make sure phase filters is turned off. I think it’s in the Motor → FOC → Filters tab
@jaykup
Thanks again for the quick reply.
Alright…I take the good news. That’s probably what I did wrong, didn’t match the firmware with the circuit board. I’ll try that later.
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I sorta disappeared from here for a while but I definitely haven’t stopped using the 75/100 FOC V2.
I have to say, it just keeps getting better for my application( a 13s Ninebot max e scooter)
Its taken me a while but I now have it tuned to perfection. It hauls ass! Seriously, 40mph without a hill using field weakening, more with a hill, it’s actually crazy fast but controllable. I’m getting peaks of almost 3kw.
The V2 version has held up with much more abuse then I gave the V1 version. It appears very solid. I was new to VESC with the V1 version so maybe that explains the problems I had but still,I’m pushing ALOT more power through the V2 version with no problems whatsoever.
I have logs to prove all of this but not in any format that I see used here. Using a NRF module and VESC tool with an iPhone. My logs are only visible after downloading and importing files from my phone to my VESC tool on my PC. Any suggestions as to a better way to share logs?
Hello Guys,
I have a problem with my fsesc 75100. Mainly the problem is that the current is heavily pulsing or oscillating (see here: -cant include youtube link-). Firstly I tried it with 5.3 firmware but forgot to turn off phase filter (did I blew something??, if yes what?) than stock 5.2 firmware. Both firmware versions showed the same result. Motor detection runs fine and spins the motor smoothly. I changed a few foc parameters like O.G. but couldn’t affect the current behavior at all. (Is there a certain parameter that I could try changing?). What could be the cause for this? (bad wiring, blown esc or wrong foc parameters?)