How to update firmware on the Flipsky 75100 & 75200 FOC ESC

[b1996]

curiously the Ubox is not 100% the same, they have a custom logic board, case and silkscreen on the case

it seems like the Ubox Alu PCB’s use the exact same powerstage and enclosure (sort of, not 100%), but that’s where the similarities seem to end

I guess they get the powerstage and case from the same people flipsky does but have their own logic PCB’s in it

I also don’t know if all components, like capacitors, are the same on the power stage

might be an interesting project to design my own logic board for my MKSESC75200 Alu PCB’s though, so i can use the INA181’s they use in the 75100 but unfortunately use a random opamp in the 75200

[b1996]

It seems like you could fit the INA4181

if you lose the ceramic cap or put it somewhere else, bend the ref pins up and hook them up manually and cut the NC pins you could perhaps fit one of those in there

it would mean you need to skip one row of pins to hook those up manually (so the output pins match), but in theory it could work

edit: seems like ref just needs to be at half voltage level, so just hooking those to a 50/50 potential divider at 3.3V should be fine

edit2: obviously needs other mods to delete the 20V/V multiplication done by the opamp (which will be resistors on the board) so the INA4181 can take care of that

[b1996]

So since i defo wasnt gonna use loopkeys (just one AS150 per vesc to initially precharge em and keep a good high current connection) with them 75200s and didnt want those shitty antisparks based on mosfets that usually dont really do their job… and i wanted to use it in a scooter so…

i went with a different approach…

basically there’s a trace running from battery + to the main buck converter and there’s a ceramic cap nearby

you might wonder where the trace runs, but it comes from the battery + from the bottom of the logic board… So i just cut the trace going to the main buck converter and ceramic filter cap

the original circuitry that need direct access/a direct reference to batt+ still have a direct connection (like the high side gate drivers)

this allows me to use one of those standard voltmeter key switches which i had from a Chinese scooter, they basically pass battery positive to the controllers

the result is… a modded 75200 with a switchable positive input

you just solder an input wire to the cap positive (its ceramic, doesnt really matter for the cap itself) which is connected to the buck chips’ vin

I wanted to be extra safe so i just used a 470Ohm resistor in series with the wire going to the cap

this is the side where it has to be soldered to and is the easiest to reach

to be safe i would recommend some kind of glue over the cap afterwards and something to protect the cut pcb from corrosion (epoxy, …)

in the end your result should be something like this, this was just on a psu set to 34v as an initial test.

note i havent done the opamp mod described earlier in the forums… yet

when no power is passed to the buck converter the power consumption is actually 0

ofcourse doing it this way, your case wont fit on but its best to mill/cut out the section around the buck converter either way cause it was touching the ceramic caps around it out of the box… which could end up in a nasty short overtime

[A-damW]

Nice mod! thanks for the write up.

[Lucky]

@jaykup

The MakerBase one uses the SGM8584 while the Flipsky version uses the SGM8634. It’s unclear if this was a change batch to batch, an attempt to fix something, part availability, or something MakerBase does different.

Maybe I can answer the difference between FSESC 75200 and MKSESC75200, because this is what I modified. The difference between SGM8584 and SGM8634:

1. SGM8584 is positioned as a precision operational amplifier, while SGM8634 is an ordinary operational amplifier. I think SGM8584 has a better and more stable amplification effect than SGM8634. In fact, we have the same conclusion when we watch the waveform.
2. SGM8584 will be more expensive than SGM8634, the price difference is 2-3 times.

[Lucky]

@b1996

So since i defo wasnt gonna use loopkeys (just one AS150 per vesc to initially precharge em and keep a good high current connection) with them 75200s and didnt want those shitty antisparks based on mosfets that usually dont really do their job… and i wanted to use it in a scooter so…

i went with a different approach…

Sorry for this result, if you bought it on AliExpress, you can contact customer service, I will suggest customer service to send you a new board!
For this capacitor problem, all the boards we have in stock have been replaced with smaller 1206.

[b1996]

No mines fine, i just wanted no loopkey, its a mod!

i can now turn it on with a switch that passes battery voltage to the board so the capacitors are permanently powered and the 75200 has a switch capability which powers the buck converter, that’s the only thing missing on these ESC’s apart from INA181’s

please do a revision with proper current sense ic’s instead of opamps!

[Tommynwn]

Same like others, im going back to 5.2 :c i have the very low torque problem with exactlly the same config, 120A phase, 70A battery, and now it jerks!

i just go back to 5.2 and everything is fixed again, weird

[casainho]

Good news!!

NOTE: I share my Fiido Q1S micro motorcycle build log, including all the electronics and firmware, as OpenSource, here: Fiido Q1S: VESC + modular DIY OpenSource electronics and software | Endless Sphere DIY EV Forum

I flashed the firmware that improves the motor current on this cheap bad quality VESC and now the motor is much more silent, like a 100x improvement!!! The VESC motor auto-detection is almost perfect, but still seems the motor inductance value need to be corrected a bit - next I should do the hardware mod that should improve even more.

Finally I have a perfect silent motor, that I didn’t thought would be possible!!

Yesterday I did the usual 14 kms ride at the night to go to the gym and everything went well, except at very high currents - I may need to tweak a bit the detected motor L value.

And for the curious, I am using VESC on my EBikes / ESCooters / micro Emotorcycles and doing the high level logic, with DIY ESP32-S2/S3 boards, running high level Python firmware,to implement the system parts: main board (the communicates with VESC by UART), Display, BMS automatic turn on/off power board, rear lights board and front lights board. All this boards are simple DIY and communicate between them using wireless ESPnow.

Here a video:

EScooter EBike tail/stop/turn lights DIY OpenSource wireless modular board and firmware

Picture from yesterday ride:

[KianWilkerson]

What version do you recommend for an ebike build? 75100 V2 or 75100 pro? I like that the V2 has a power button so I don’t have to mess around with a loop key. Not sure what are the advantages of the pro apart from the built in Bluetooth.

[Evwan]

Get the V2. Having a built in vesc button is gonna save you much frustration. You also can’t ruin your battery when your ESC auto shuts off after inactivity

[thierry333]

I would like to share some of my experience with Flipsky PRO, especially 75200. Actually there is a componant that is so close to cover that one of my controller exploded few minutes after connecting the power supply. Therefore, I highly recommand to machine the cover to allow more clearance.

I have also noticed an important inaccuracy on battery voltage reading, around 2V at full charge on 20S with 75_100_V2 and respectively FSESC_7500_200_ALU, maybe I should have used anothe firmware for PRO version?

[oskare2345]

Hi. I have fried two of 75100 and two of 75200 and each of them died in simillar manner (2x 75100 and one 75200 bured mosfets and one 75200 overheated while being bolted down to aluminum heatsink about 20x30cm…). They were powering 80100 180kv motor for my fwd conversion. I had run 75100 at 100A phase and 100bat and 75200 at 160A phase and 150A batt (transmission cant take more torque). Motor have powerfull air cooling and temps are always below 55C regardless fo load. Wires from ESC to motor are about 70cm - Could this cause problems? Could this be firmware / hardware issue? Anyone had similar problems? I dont want to boy another esc to fail.

[A-damW]

You left out an important metric, what voltage are you running?

[b1996]

the PRO version is Flipsky’s modification to work directly and accurately with Trampa firmware rather than actually f…ing making their own firmware config!

it’s like they want you to use firmware that allows you to break it by enabling “phase filters”, instead of actually doing something correctly

i would not recommend the PRO’s at all, it’s Flipsky’s lazy component change to not have to deal with modifying firmware, and Jaykup has the best firmware config either way (just not for the Pro’s)

[b1996]

What’s the best way to get rid of that thermal silicone caulk like glue (preferably without using a heat gun or something like that, i don’t wanna risk desoldering components)

i would like to put 2 MKSESC 75200 controllers in a relatively large aluminium enclosure with a large heatsink on it… rather than use the original cases (the MKSESC’s unfortunately use some kind of glue instead of thermal paste like the Flipsky counter parts) ?

i would like to get them out of the case without damaging the boards

btw, the thermal glue is really a bad, bad move, and unfortunate.

[b1996]

Whew the MKS75100 and 75200 Alu PCB are €77 and €110 on Ali right now with 21% VAT, cheap as hell

if i needed some in the future i would order a bunch rn

[thierry333]

So what firmwares are recommended for pro flipsky 75100 and 75200? I’m currently using them with non-pro firmwares.

[iawest]

Hi

I believe I have bricked my Flipsky FSESC75100 with Alu. PCB.

I have two actually. I have followed your guide and it worked fine on the first one. But the second one is completely unresponsive, after I have followed the guide. When I power it, I get a solid blue LED. It is not recognized by the computer.

Is it definitely bricked? Nothing else to do, then to by the ST Link programmer?

Thank you in advance!

[deeznuts_pwned]

isn’t solid blue light what you want when powering on 75100?.. my makerbase 75100 LED status light is blue powered on at idle and turns green when it detects throttle input.