uh to add on that (i see no edit button) i’ve read about phase filters before even starting to try anything with the FSESC’s, so i had it off before anything else ;), once again thanks!
I think you’re going to notice a huge difference with the 75/100 vs the stock ESC.
I have a ex rental single motor scooter which hauls ass now using a VESC.
If I was you I would set Motor current to 100A. Set Max motor current to 120A. Raise battery current significantly to at or just below motor amps. I would set yours to 100A. Your motor and battery will be just fine at these settings. Remember, your not going to be at max current all the time.
If you really want your mind blown then set Field weaken to something like 35-40A. Gonna have a smile on your face.
Let us know how it works out.
Them 28A battery current JP controllers actually do like 90 phase amps, i’ve had it set up before with the VESC’s but the acceleration didn’t seem super impressive, albeit smooth tho, the original controllers were simply full acceleration all time till it reached target speed (i’m on an Obarter X3, 2x 1200W 48V scooter)
I’ll let y’all know in a few hours (when i need to get to work) wether the firmware and some other things i’ve noticed fixed my problems.
BTW still going to be running 38A max per ESC as my battery has a 90A peak overcurrent protection BMS and it is NOT bypassed, but it was just strange it was off, albeit i figured out some issues, for some reason i had an Ld-Lq value on a damn outrunner? uh well… that might explain something 
, also with Jaykups firmware the temp reading is fixed, it wouldn’t go under 31°C with VESC official firmware, and my new measurements are probly gonna help quite a bit aswell
120A motor peak should be fine on these gigantic hubs (11" 4" wide tires)
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what can i say, amazing difference, proper temperature reading etc, except i broke atleast one controller 1h in the ride, like i went full throttle very fast and i’m sure it blew a fet or something, still managed to get home on it lmao
I have no clue what’s wrong, i went full throttle from standstill, from 0 speed, thats when it went wrong, when i use adc2 brake i get no cogging on either motor, and it doesn’t seem to really cog on acceleration either except it’s really slow and it cuts out
Glad to hear it worked for a bit!
If the regen is still working, and the controller turns on I don’t think a fet is blown. Usually that causes the controller not to turn on, or it won’t drive the motor at all.
I’d lean more towards the phase windings, phase connections, BMS or something in the input. You could try swapping controllers to see if the problem follows the controller or the motor, or measuring inductance on the motor to see if all the phases are the same.
To check for a blown fet you can measure the resistance between the phases of the controller with the motor disconnected and see if they all match. I don’t know what the values for that controller are, but probably somewhere around 60-150kohms would be a normal value.
I’d also consider bypassing the BMS for discharge, but leave it in the charge circuit.
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Yeah bms bypass is defo one of the routes i’ve thought about, especially when i’m gonna diy a pack with 21700s
but that might be for a later day, for now i get no cogging or anything but i feel brake all round the motors so i doubt that phases are an issue, but who knows really until it’s measured
regen is hard to check if it works on BOTH controllers separately as i can’t just leave one out, one controller works as the UART receiver and front motor controller, the other one is connected through CAN and has the adc inputs, but i’ll try some stuff either way
I’ve noticed a sort of audible switching noise which normally wouldn’t be there since it happened, and it increases and decreases with the throttle amount, even though the rpm is limited that still happens
To add on that, it really seems like i might’ve desoldered a phase shunt by the current somewhere?
it measures about 166k between each phase on the vescs themselves, although i still get abs overcurrent errors on one vesc while it surely isn’t doing that much power, while cutting out rapidly, both on regen and on acceleration, swapping the motors still the same thing while without a load it’s an absolute non-issue, runs smooth as hell, i just suppose one or more of the shunt resistors desoldered themselves somewhere then, as that would “amplify” the measured current although i haven’t checked that yet, i’ve noticed Ld-Lq measurement is double on that specific controller aswell. and it triggers abs overcurrent at 180A while it’s definitely not putting that much power into the motor now
another thing is that the motor phases seem completely fine aswell
other than that everything seems fine.
i guess i’ll have to open er up and hope nothing serious broke
You can call me impressed, left cap has a broken leg and middle cap literally desoldered, it seems like the PCB is damaged tho? i didnt probe it yet, i hope thats not significant… ohh well
Seems like it’s still smoky in there from your incident
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Oh, so you have the new version. I was confused because there are two versions of the original controller that’s in the generic metal box. Shouldn’t make a difference though as the design is similar, it just uses SMD FETs which makes for a much better thermal design.
The detached capacitor is really no surprise. Flipskys 4.20 mini has a crap design where the cap easily breaks off a tiny solder pad. Would it make a difference in performance? I’m sure it would but not sure if it would cause the symptoms your describing.
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na, thats just the effect of an S9+ which had the camera glass lens cover broken for like 2 years
on the other hand there’s no real damage other than the caps it seems (on the first look), i dunno if all caps should be fully in parallel on the positive and negative rails, if they should be the traces are broken aswell (i sure hope not)
the least that’ll need to surely happen is the one with the broken leg replaced, the other 2 caps measure within spec (320 ish uF on my Fluke dmm), and actually the other broken one does too but i don’t trust a cap with such a short leg lol, inb4 it shorts one day
on the other hand idk if this one had silicon sealant over the caps as a sort of protection, the other 75100 alu pcb does
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It definitely needs enough filtering, 990uF atleast and i think i overtaxed the caps which broke the controller, hopefully no real pcb damage but oh well
Yeah, they are in parallel
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Ok then i’ve got broken traces, no doubt, rip, albeit it gives me the option to try and add larger filter caps outside of the case aswell 
or just a new alu pcb
damn shame, they were so nice and they never even got very warm, but when you push your luck stuff is about to go wrong 
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I don’t think it’s your fault, a cap is the last thing I would expected to blow. Looks more like something shorted between the caps legs. Maybe one leg detached creating a intermittent connection?
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I did that with a FS 4.20 mini. Just make sure to keep as close as possible to the ESC. Pay attention to the caps ESR. Going to want low ESR caps
yup, if it aint low esr it cant help with the high current and high speed peaks, and i wouldn’t want it too far to reduce inductance, i think i just got a gigantic peak that the caps and traces couldn’t take, albeit the caps still measure normal values otherwise
So i knew Makerbase had the exact same 75100 as the original, but now they have the Alu PCB aswell and even cheaper than the Flipsky’s on AliExpress…
Are they made in the same factory with a different sticker?
€ 111,89 | Makerbase VESC 75100 V2 75V 100A V2 Based on Benjamin VESC6 HighPower For Electric Skateboard/Scooter/Ebike Controller
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtcdjzq
I think it’s hilarious that they both have 1:1 the same product, but they’re always cheaper at the Makerbase reseller
Oh also, why the hell are Ubox’s so expensive on Ali?
I wish they also sold their stuff on Ali, and also that some vendors had them in EU warehouses, i’m basically stuck to FSESC 75100’s and MKSESC 75100’s if i don’t wanna pay import costs lmao
Shame Benjamin or anyone else in the EU doesn’t sell the Trampa’s as import and VAT costs in Belgium are ridiculous
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