Nice mod! thanks for the write up.
Maybe I can answer the difference between FSESC 75200 and MKSESC75200, because this is what I modified. The difference between SGM8584 and SGM8634:
- SGM8584 is positioned as a precision operational amplifier, while SGM8634 is an ordinary operational amplifier. I think SGM8584 has a better and more stable amplification effect than SGM8634. In fact, we have the same conclusion when we watch the waveform.
- SGM8584 will be more expensive than SGM8634, the price difference is 2-3 times.
Sorry for this result, if you bought it on AliExpress, you can contact customer service, I will suggest customer service to send you a new board!
For this capacitor problem, all the boards we have in stock have been replaced with smaller 1206.
No mines fine, i just wanted no loopkey, its a mod!
i can now turn it on with a switch that passes battery voltage to the board so the capacitors are permanently powered and the 75200 has a switch capability which powers the buck converter, that’s the only thing missing on these ESC’s apart from INA181’s
please do a revision with proper current sense ic’s instead of opamps!
Same like others, im going back to 5.2 :c i have the very low torque problem with exactlly the same config, 120A phase, 70A battery, and now it jerks!
i just go back to 5.2 and everything is fixed again, weird
Good news!!
NOTE: I share my Fiido Q1S micro motorcycle build log, including all the electronics and firmware, as OpenSource, here: Fiido Q1S: VESC + modular DIY OpenSource electronics and software | Endless Sphere DIY EV Forum
I flashed the firmware that improves the motor current on this cheap bad quality VESC and now the motor is much more silent, like a 100x improvement!!! The VESC motor auto-detection is almost perfect, but still seems the motor inductance value need to be corrected a bit - next I should do the hardware mod that should improve even more.
Finally I have a perfect silent motor, that I didn’t thought would be possible!!
Yesterday I did the usual 14 kms ride at the night to go to the gym and everything went well, except at very high currents - I may need to tweak a bit the detected motor L value.
And for the curious, I am using VESC on my EBikes / ESCooters / micro Emotorcycles and doing the high level logic, with DIY ESP32-S2/S3 boards, running high level Python firmware,to implement the system parts: main board (the communicates with VESC by UART), Display, BMS automatic turn on/off power board, rear lights board and front lights board. All this boards are simple DIY and communicate between them using wireless ESPnow.
Here a video:
Picture from yesterday ride:
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What version do you recommend for an ebike build? 75100 V2 or 75100 pro? I like that the V2 has a power button so I don’t have to mess around with a loop key. Not sure what are the advantages of the pro apart from the built in Bluetooth.
Get the V2. Having a built in vesc button is gonna save you much frustration. You also can’t ruin your battery when your ESC auto shuts off after inactivity
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I would like to share some of my experience with Flipsky PRO, especially 75200. Actually there is a componant that is so close to cover that one of my controller exploded few minutes after connecting the power supply. Therefore, I highly recommand to machine the cover to allow more clearance.
I have also noticed an important inaccuracy on battery voltage reading, around 2V at full charge on 20S with 75_100_V2 and respectively FSESC_7500_200_ALU, maybe I should have used anothe firmware for PRO version?
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Hi. I have fried two of 75100 and two of 75200 and each of them died in simillar manner (2x 75100 and one 75200 bured mosfets and one 75200 overheated while being bolted down to aluminum heatsink about 20x30cm…). They were powering 80100 180kv motor for my fwd conversion. I had run 75100 at 100A phase and 100bat and 75200 at 160A phase and 150A batt (transmission cant take more torque). Motor have powerfull air cooling and temps are always below 55C regardless fo load. Wires from ESC to motor are about 70cm - Could this cause problems? Could this be firmware / hardware issue? Anyone had similar problems? I dont want to boy another esc to fail.
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You left out an important metric, what voltage are you running?
the PRO version is Flipsky’s modification to work directly and accurately with Trampa firmware rather than actually f…ing making their own firmware config!
it’s like they want you to use firmware that allows you to break it by enabling “phase filters”, instead of actually doing something correctly
i would not recommend the PRO’s at all, it’s Flipsky’s lazy component change to not have to deal with modifying firmware, and Jaykup has the best firmware config either way (just not for the Pro’s)
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What’s the best way to get rid of that thermal silicone caulk like glue (preferably without using a heat gun or something like that, i don’t wanna risk desoldering components)
i would like to put 2 MKSESC 75200 controllers in a relatively large aluminium enclosure with a large heatsink on it… rather than use the original cases (the MKSESC’s unfortunately use some kind of glue instead of thermal paste like the Flipsky counter parts) ?
i would like to get them out of the case without damaging the boards
btw, the thermal glue is really a bad, bad move, and unfortunate.
Whew the MKS75100 and 75200 Alu PCB are €77 and €110 on Ali right now with 21% VAT, cheap as hell
if i needed some in the future i would order a bunch rn 
So what firmwares are recommended for pro flipsky 75100 and 75200? I’m currently using them with non-pro firmwares.
Hi
I believe I have bricked my Flipsky FSESC75100 with Alu. PCB.
I have two actually. I have followed your guide and it worked fine on the first one. But the second one is completely unresponsive, after I have followed the guide. When I power it, I get a solid blue LED. It is not recognized by the computer.
Is it definitely bricked? Nothing else to do, then to by the ST Link programmer?
Thank you in advance!
isn’t solid blue light what you want when powering on 75100?.. my makerbase 75100 LED status light is blue powered on at idle and turns green when it detects throttle input.
Thank you for your reply. Maybe you are right about the LED. But still, I cannot connect with USB, and it works fine with my other identical 75100 Alu. Do you know if there is anything else I can try? Thank you for your help
you can use the working vesc’s GND, CLK and DIO as a SWD Programmer
edit: A-damW was days before me.